From the outside, the Granary looks like hipster barbecue. The place inhabits a remodeled nineteenth-century house across the street from the brewery building in the Pearl development, with its pricey condos and upscale bakery. Inside, the place is sheathed in dark wood paneling and lit with filament bulbs. At one end is an anatomical image of a pig, its parts labeled in French. French! Curmudgeons who appreciate grungier spots where even the walls have smoke rings may well grumble. Until, that is, they try the meat. The well-barked brisket, though a touch dry, is incredibly flavorful. So are the pork ribs and the juicy chicken. A dual-purpose business, the Granary also brews beer, and Tim Rattray comes up with great sides like smoked collard greens and delicious burnt-end baked beans, not to mention desserts like bread pudding. Maybe the Granary has some old-school Texas in it after all.