Feature

A Barbecue Man in a Quiche Town

Feb 24, 2015 By Daniel Vaughn

Barbecue’s reputation in the culinary world has turned a corner. Last week the nominations for the New York based James Beard Foundation’s annual awards were announced, and a pitmaster was among the names that were otherwise a roll call of haute cuisine. Under the heading “Best Chef: Southwest”…

The History of the Pig Stands

Feb 18, 2015 By Daniel Vaughn

Brisket may dominate barbecue menus in Texas today, but nearly a century ago, a Dallas institution built its mighty restaurant empire on a simple Tennessee-style barbecued-pork sandwich: the “Pig Sandwich.” Perhaps some already know that I’m referring to the signature item served at the Pig Stand, a Dallas-based chain that formed…

The Best Banana Pudding List

Feb 10, 2015 By Daniel Vaughn

No matter how much barbecue I’ve consumed (typically five times the recommended daily allowance), it always feels like there’s room left for something sweet.  A bowl of peach cobbler or a slice of buttermilk pie offer comfort, but their recipes don’t really vary much from one end of the state…

Highway BBQ: Part Four

Feb 3, 2015 By Daniel Vaughn

If you’ve spent any time on the interstates of Texas, you’ve probably seen barbecue restaurants advertised on numerous billboards, blue service signs, or obnoxiously huge structures situated along the access road. Who among hasn’t seen one of those logos and thought, is the food worth stopping for? If a place needs that…

I’d Tell You, But…

Jan 27, 2015 By Daniel Vaughn

Last week, seasoned pitmasters and aspiring barbecue cooks descended on tiny Murphysboro, Illinois, for the fourth annual Whole Hog Extravaganza and Brisket Bonanza. The students had paid good money to learn the secrets of the professionals, and the teachers weren’t shy about sharing their recipes for porchetta, whole hog, beef…

Inauguration Barbecue

Jan 20, 2015 By Daniel Vaughn

Later today, after the inauguration of Greg Abbott as the forty-eighth governor of Texas, 17,000 hungry ticket holders clamoring for food will line up for lunch on the Capitol grounds in Austin. Forty-five minutes later, they’ll all have a full plate of barbecue. At least that’s what mega-caterer Eddie Deen has…

Houston Wright, a Butcher

Jan 13, 2015 By Daniel Vaughn

Houston Wright cut meat, made sausage, and cooked barbecue at Kreuz Market in Lockhart for sixty years. He was tying sausage there before the brick building that housed the market (and is now home to Smitty’s Market) was built in 1924. He was deaf and mute by then—former Kreuz Market…

The End of Cheap Beef

Jan 6, 2015 By Daniel Vaughn

That beef is more expensive than it was a year ago is no surprise, and this trend doesn’t look to be easing up anytime soon. As David Anderson, a Texas A&M professor of ag economics, told a room full of barbecue joint owners last month at the university’s first-ever Barbecue Town Hall,…

The Hardeman Family’s Barbecue Legacy

Dec 16, 2014 By Daniel Vaughn

In a Dallas city directory from 1948, there is a listing for Hardeman’s Barbecue. In fact there were two at the time, both of which were located in what was known as Freedman’s Town. It was a segregated African-American neighborhood just north of downtown in what is now…

The Rise of All-Natural Beef

Dec 12, 2014 By Daniel Vaughn

In 1877 an ad in the Brenham Weekly Banner touted that “Mr. Fritz Fisher … now announces that he is prepared to serve his customers with fine, fat, stall fed beef.” Today, the Texas Panhandle is home to plenty of concentrated animal feeding operations, or CAFO’s, but this may have…