Tips on how to create some of the best Texan dishes out there
This vigorous melding of ricotta, Gorgonzola, Parmesan, and mozzarella cheeses with assertive herbs epitomizes the free-and-easy style of EZ’s, Cappy Lawton’s newest San Antonio restaurant. The Lawtons’ dinnertime joke was, “Let’s go someplace easy,” but few nearby restaurants fit that description. So when the Waitz Model Market relocated, Cappy nabbed
From Austin’s Eastside Cafe come three soups that will bowl you over.
Recipe from Ruth Carter, soups-and-specials cook at Austin’s Eastside Cafe.Dewberry-Orange4 cups dewberries or blackberries, rinsed 2 cups water 1/2 cup sugar 4 ounces cream cheese 2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice 4 cups fresh orange juice mint leaves for garnish (optional)Combine berries (reserve a few for garnish) with water in a
Recipe from Lisa Biggerstaff, pastry chef, Dacapo’s on the Parkway, Houston.Mousse9 ounces semisweet chocolate 1 ounces butter, melted 1 pint whipping cream 3 medium eggs 1 1⁄2 teaspoons dark rum 1 tablespoon espresso or strong coffeeMelt chocolate in a double boiler. Melt butter in a pan. Set both aside and
Mesteña’s apple sorbet and walnut-apple flautas are delicious to the core.
Recipe from Pastry chef Doug Wilson, Mesteña’s, San Antonio.Sorbet1 cup water 1 1/2 cups sugar 8 Braeburn apples, peeled and coredBoil water and sugar for 5 minutes to make a simple syrup. Make fresh apple juice by puréeing apples thoroughly in a food processor and pushing through a fine strainer.
Recipe from chef-owner Lynette Hawkins Mandola, La Mora, Houston.Balsamic Vinaigrette2 tablespoons pancetta (2 or 3 ounces), sliced 1/8-inch thick and then cut into 1/4-inch squares (you may substitute prosciutto) 1 tablespoon plus 2 teaspoons red-wine vinegar 1 tablespoon plus 2 teaspoons balsamic vinegar 1/2 teaspoon sugar 4 tablespoons olive oil
Tempt summer-singed appetites with this breezy Mediterranean combo: a sensational salad and crisp crostini topped with shrimp and goat cheese from Dallas’ Sambuca (2618 Elm). Executive chef Willem De Froy says contrast is the key: “You pile the peppers, which are sweet, on top of the crostini with goat cheese,
This alfresco feast from Eureka!, a Dallas restaurant and gourmet-to-go emporium (4011 Villanova), can turn a backyard cookout or tailgate picnic into a classy occasion. A grilled chicken breast marinated in lemon and garlic provides this custom menu’s mainstay, with assistance from an emphatic tomato-basil sauce touched with Parmesan. A
“A chile relleno doesn’t have to be heavy,” says Arnaldo Richards, the owner of Pico’s in Houston (1427 Lomitas, near Kirby and Southwest Freeway). That’s why he has composed a luscious vegetarian version of Mexico’s traditional pork-stuffed pepper. He eschews the usual egg batter and deep frying in favor of
El Paso’s clubby San Francisco Grill (127A Pioneer Plaza) is a cool downtown retreat from the big-city clamor, and its menu offerings are a far cry from the picante specialties of other local eateries.The Grill’s Key lime pie, a towering drift of sweetly tangy citrus in a nutty toasted crust,
Dallas chef Stephan Pyles redefined Texas cuisine in the eighties, giving a sophisticated treatment to down-home staples and adding the distinctive kick of chiles and Mexican spices. The founder of the dear departed Routh Street Cafe and its more casual offspring, Baby Routh (2708 Routh Street), Pyles shares his pioneering
How did the chefs at Dallas’ French Room whip up such a delicious cake? Choc it up to creativity.
Pistachio and Eggnog Milk Sauce1/2 cup shelled pistachios 4 medium egg yolks 1/2 cup sugar (less if using eggnog, to taste) 1/2 quart whipping cream or eggnog 1 quart milk 1 vanilla bean, splitRoast pistachios at 350 degrees for 10 minutes, chop, and cool. Whisk egg yolks and sugar in
After Bruce and Susan Molzan bought the Ruggles Grill four years ago, they revitalized the menu at the sleepy Montrose landmark with his brash cooking style and her luxurious desserts.Both Molzans are graduates of the prestigious Culinary Institute of America in Hyde Park, New York, and their approaches to food
1 cup cooking oil 2 cups sugar 3 eggs 2 1/2 cups flour 2 teaspoons baking powder 1 teaspoon salt 1 teaspoon ground cinnamon 1 teaspoon ground nutmeg 1 teaspoon vanilla 4 cups peeled and chopped Granny Smith apples 1 cup chopped pecansPreheat over to 350 degrees. Combine oil and
3 cups Softasilk cake flour 1 cup sugar 1 1/2 tablespoons baking powder 1 teaspoon salt 3/4 cup shortening (Crisco is fine) 3 lightly beaten eggs 1/2 cup milk 2 tablespoons vanilla 2 cups heavy cream 1/4 cup sugar powdered sugarFor Strawberry Shortcake: 2 1/2 pints strawberries 2
Neil Doherty, the executive chef at the Marker in Houston’s Adam’s Mark Hotel (2900 Briarpark Drive) was something of a child prodigy. By 21, he was already a head chef in his native Ireland, where he learned the value of cooking with local ingredients such as seaweed and nettles. He
Tacos go uptown in the hands of Dean Fearing. All it takes is a little lobster, jalapeño-spiked cheese, fresh spinach, and Fearing’s snappy yellow-tomato salsa. A signature dish of Dallas’ Mansion on Turtle Creek (2821 Turtle Creek Boulevard), these tony tacos are featured in De Gustibus Presents the Great Cooks’
Recipe from The Grape’s chef Jason Gorman.Cranberry-Mango Chutney1/8 cup minced garlic 1 cup cranberry juice 1/2 cup honey 1 cup fresh cranberries 1 small mango, diced 1/2 cup dried apricots, diced 1 stick cinnamon 1 tablespoon diced fresh gingerSauté garlic in a saucepan until golden brown. Add remaining ingredients and
Núóc Mam Dipping Sauce3/4 cup Squid brand fish sauce (núóc mam, available at oriental markets) 1/4 cup rice wine vinegar 2 tablespoons chopped scallions (green onions)Whisk ingredients together and set aside.Vegetable Platter1 head leaf lettuce 1 bunch fresh mint 8 ounces bean sprouts 8 thin spears fresh pineapple, cut lengthwise
With just a nip of nuoc mam you’ll be on your way to the cooking frontier of Vietnamese food.
Ginger Slaw2 tablespoons chopped prepared pickled ginger 2 tablespoons juice from pickled ginger 1 tablespoon sugar 1/2 cup rice wine vinegar 1/2 teaspoon sesame oil 1/2 medium head red cabbage, thinly sliced 1/4 head napa or savoy cabbage, thinly sliced 1 carrot, peeled and thinly julienned 1 red bell pepper,
Austin’s beau monde has had a serious crush on Jeffrey’s (1204 West Lynn, Austin) ever since the intimate, unpretentious restaurant opened in 1975. This standard-setting establishment takes a maverick approach to gourmet dining: Executive chef Raymond Tatum, a self-taught cook with a rebel streak, specializes in improvising provocative Southwestern fare
Some like it hot; Texans like it hotter. That’s why Carl Walker, the chef at Brennan’s in Houston (3300 Smith), branded his barbecued shrimp with black pepper and poblano chiles. Double-daring the Southwest palate, he paired the shrimp with his spicy version of a down-home favorite. “I wanted to make cornbread pudding
Chef Oscar Mejia’s splashy tropical creations give a summer feel year-round to the menu at the Merchant Prince in Galveston. Located just off the soaring lobby of the beautifully restored 1879 Tremont House hotel (2300 Ship’s Mechanic Row), the intimate restaurant showcases Mejia’s idiosyncratic blend of Caribbean and Southwestern culinary
From Cooking: “I, Piscivore” by Gary Cartwright, in the September 1987 issue of Texas Monthly.1 large egg2 tablespoons mayonnaise, crème fraîche, or sour cream2 teaspoons Dijon mustard or the hotter Louisiana Creole mustardPinch of cayenne pepper1/2 teaspoon freshly ground white pepperPinch of salt1/4 teaspoon Worcestershire sauce1 pound
Resolutely international, Austin’s Clarksville (1205 N. Lamar) draws on a world of culinary influences, from the Far East to South America. A creation that melds the traditions of two continents is the irresistible fried soft-shell crabs in moqueca sauce. The dish originated in northeastern India as pokeka, a seafood stew.
Cheesecake1/2 pound cooked Maine lobster 1/2 pound lump crabmeat 1/2 pound cooked jumbo shrimp 1 pound mascarpone cheese 2 pounds cream cheese 5 eggs 1 1/4 cups flour 1/2 bunch scallions, diced Kosher salt and white pepper to tastePreheat oven to 250 degrees.Cut cream cheese into smallish chunks. Allow both
Recipe from restaurant owner Benjy Levit, Benjy’s, Houston.Coffee Maple Syrup1 cup maple syrup 1/4 cup whole coffee beans, any typePlace syrup and coffee beans in a small nonreactive saucepan and simmer over low heat for a few minutes, then let steep for a couple of hours. Remove beans. (May be
3 cups long-grain rice (preferably basmati) 1 large onion 1-inch piece gingerroot, peeled 6 garlic cloves 5 tablespoons peanut oil 1 large tomato, finely chopped 1 1/2 teaspoons poppy seeds Scant 1/2 teaspoon turmeric 3/4 teaspoon each of cumin powder, ground coriander, and Indian red chile powder (or cayenne pepper)
The nontraditional step of cooking the onion and chiles gives them a full, roasted flavor that goes beautifully with the mellow avocado. Just don’t stand too close to the pan while cooking the chiles, or the fumes will burn your nose.2 teaspoons unsalted butter 2 teaspoons vegetable oil 3 serrano
In 1980, when Armando Miranda took his first job in America as a line cook, he barely knew a muffin from a mousse. That has changed. In his peregrinations through prominent Houston restaurants, including the River Cafe, he taught himself to cook. Even today he’s a free spirit. “I don’t
For more than a year, Houston’s cafe society has been holding its breath in anticipation of the scheduled September reopening of Tony’s (1801 Post Oak Boulevard). Not only has the interior been lavishly remodeled to suggest a restaurant on the Italian Riviera, but owner Tony Vallone and chef Mark Cox
“Brunch isn’t just eggs Benedict anymore,” says Matthew Antonvich, chef-owner of Dallas’ Sipango (4513 Travis), as he whips up a batch of frothy scrambled egg whites studded with morsels of pink smoked salmon and handsomely accessorized with oven-roasted potatoes and caramelized onions. “Five years ago,” says Antonovich, “nobody would have
Radicchio Walnut Salad9 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil 3 tablespoons balsamic vinegar (preferably from Modena) 2/3 cup sugar 1 cup walnut halves 2 heads radicchio, coarsely chopped or torn 3 ounces Gorgonzola, finely crumbled salt and pepper to tasteWhisk oil and vinegar until thick and season with salt and pepper. Set
Recipe from chef and owner Louise Lamensdorf, Bistro Louise, Fort Worth.Grilled Salmon4 teaspoons coarse sea salt 2 tablespoons sugar 2 tablespoons black pepper 1 cup fresh mint, chopped 4 six-ounce salmon filetsMix first 4 ingredients, rub on salmon, and marinate 2 to 24 hours. Grill (or sauté) filets for 3
Chef Hervé Glin is a big man. “I love to eat,” he says, wryly surveying his own bulk. He also likes to feed people, which he does at his clubby Cité Grill at 5860 Westheimer in Houston. His fondness for seafood and many of his culinary ideas come from his
Recipe from Z’Tejas Grill, Austin.Black Bean—Mango Relish1/2 cup cooked black beans, rinsed (may use canned) 1 ripe mango, diced 1/2 red bell pepper, diced 2 tablespoons chopped cilantro 1 teaspoon chopped fresh ginger 2 tablespoons chopped red onion 1 teaspoon chopped fresh jalapeño Juice of 1 limeCombine ingredients and chill.Saffron
Scalloped Tarragon Potatoes1 pound red potatoes, skins on, sliced very thin 2 tablespoons olive oil 2 teaspoons minced garlic 1 tablespoon fresh chopped tarragon Salt and white pepper to tasteToss all ingredients together. On a lightly greased sheet pan arrange potatoes in a spiral form, overlapping each slice, to make
A backpacking adventure after college led Michael Bomberg in a different direction. He never intended to make a living as a chef, but a trek through Western Europe, Africa, Asia, and the Middle East gave him food for thought.Now Bomberg is guiding San Antonio’s Anaqua Grill (555 S. Alamo) through
Thierry Burkle’s L’Etoile is a guiding light in French country cooking. The smart neighborhood brasserie succeeds because of a constellation of moderately priced, well-thought-out offerings, including this lemon sole.The mild fish is perfectly suited to a special-occasion dressing up. With a bread-crumb crust as a toasty counterpoint, the moist and
From Austin’s new Coyote Cafe (612 W. Sixth) comes the classiest club sandwich you’ll ever eat, and quite possibly the best. Offered as an occasional special at the Texas spin-off of Santa Fe’s original Coyote Cafe, the sandwich makes some key substitutions: Chile-seasoned grilled swordfish stands in for boring old
Scallops20 large (U-10) 4 tablespoons olive oil 1 lime, sliced 8 sprigs cilantroRinse scallops in cold water and remove small muscle attached to side. Place in medium bowl with olive oil, lime, and cilantro. Marinate in refrigerator for 2 hours. Just before serving, cook on a very hot grill until
Grilled Pompano in Beurre Rouge With Sea Scallops and Crayfish3 shallots, chopped fine 1/2 pound softened butter plus 3 tablespoons butter 1/2 cup each of red and white wine Juice of 1 lemon 1/2 cup heavy cream Salt and white pepper, to taste 1/2 to 3/4 pound precooked crayfish tail
Spinning in its own distinctive orbit, Austin’s Mars has created a stylishly multicultural menu, with Middle Eastern, Pacific Rim, and Mediterranean cooking styles all getting their due. This grilled salmon in a velvety sauce punched up with Japanese horseradish demonstrates how the small, trendy restaurant makes culinary worlds collide. Owner
1/4 cup pure olive oil 2 teaspoons finely chopped garlic 2 teaspoons balsamic vinegar juice of one lemon 8 strips lemon peel, about 11/2 inches long and 1/2 inch wide 1 teaspoon Dijon mustard salt and pepper to taste 12 shrimp, 10 to 15 per pound size, peeled and deveined
Chef Stephan Pyles grew up in the food business—his parents owned the Big Spring Truck Stop Cafe—and despite a degree in music and the best intentions, he’s still cooking. With two restaurants in Dallas and two in Minneapolis, Pyles and partner John Dayton have enthusiastically spread the word about Southwestern
Crab Cakes2 cups diced Roma tomatoes 1/4 cup each of minced shallots and garlic 1 cup diced onion 2 tablespoons thinly sliced serrano chiles 2 tablespoons each of sugar and lime juice 1/4 pound fresh scallops, muscle removed Salt and white pepper, to taste 1 1/4 cups chopped cilantro 2
With the Four Seasons Hotel’s sweeping view of one of Austin’s most unusual vistas—nightly bat flights snake out from under the Congress Avenue bridge and push east along Town Lake—dinners at the hotel’s Riverside Cafe (98 San Jacinto) are a double feature that’s hard to top. But the food here
