Libations
January 20, 2013
¡Viva Tequila!
How it’s made, the secret of cooking with it, the truth about the worm, and everything else you ever wanted to know about Mexico’s favorite drink—and ours.
Recipes
Tips on how to create some of the best Texan dishes out there
Recipes
January 20, 2013
State Fare: Natura Cafe’s Pancakes and Oatmeal Pudding
Shakespeare deemed music the food of love. We beg to differ. For a romantic Valentine’s Day breakfast in bed, the true food of love is a stack of pancakes with raspberry-maple syrup and a lavish helping of oatmeal pudding doused with fragrant vanilla sauce. These normally humdrum breakfast staples have
Recipes
January 20, 2013
Chicken and Dumplings
Recipe from Cafe 290, Hwy 290 East, Manor.Chicken Stock1 gallon of water 2 whole chickens 1 1/2 cubes of chicken bouillon 1/2 bunch of chopped celery 1/4 pound of butterStart with a gallon of water in a large pot. Place two whole chickens and one and a half cubes of
Recipes
January 20, 2013
Shrimp Cocktail Huatulco
This gorgeous seafood cocktail is named after Huatulco, the impossibly beautiful seaside resort in the Mexican state of Oaxaca.16 large shrimp, peeled and deveined (leave tails on) salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste 6 fresh tomatillos, husked and diced 1/4 onion, minced 1 ancho chile, stemmed, seeded, and
Recipes
January 20, 2013
Mango-Key Lime Margaritas
This tropical margarita is much fruitier and easier to drink than a genuine Mexican margarita. If a frozen drink gives you a headache, omit the crushed ice and serve on the rocks.1 shot (1 ounce) tequila 1 shot (1 ounce) Cointreau 1/4 fresh mango, peeled and chopped 1/2 cup fresh
Recipes
January 20, 2013
Robert Del Grande, Cafe Annie, Houston
“In the past few years I have tried to simplify what we do and not trump it up too much. I’ve never strained the sauces—I leave bits of chile in there to give a more rustic look.”
Libations
January 20, 2013
That’s the Spirit
Not that you’re looking for an excuse, but these five original cocktails concocted by Texas bartenders using local liquors are a thoroughly acceptable reason to pour yourself a drink. Or three.
Libations
January 20, 2013
Cool Cocktails
A few of the state’s best mixologists share their secrets to making delicious drinks.
Recipes
January 20, 2013
Grilled New Potatoes and Asparagus
Recipe from chef Jack Chaplin, Chaplin’s, Dallas.16 small red new potatoes 2 pounds fresh asparagus spears 1/4 cup olive oil 12 tablespoons butter, softened 1 teaspoon each of chopped fresh rosemary, parsley, and garlicIn 4-quart pot of boiling water, blanch potatoes for about 15 minutes, until they can be pierced
Recipes
January 20, 2013
State Fare: Greco-Roman Salad and Cannellini Bean Capriata
Even without fancy dressing, this showy Mediterranean-style salad makes a spectacle of itself. Chef Timothy Keating of the Omni Houston Hotel’s La Rèserve restaurant (4 Riverway), created the “intense” salad, as he calls it, for a fundraiser last year on a Hollywood soundstage, where he was “elbow-deep in roasted vegetables,
Recipes
January 20, 2013
State Fare: Wild Mushroom and Leek Tart and Herb Salad With Red Wine Vinaigrette
Start your New Year’s Day dinner with ruffles and flourishes—specifically this flaky, frilly tart of filo leaves containing an earthy mix of exotic mushrooms and leeks, from the elegant Conservatory at Dallas’ Hotel Crescent Court.Says executive chef Jim Mills: “Our customers are always surprised by this dish. They tell me,
Recipes
January 20, 2013
State Fare: Chocolate-Peanut Butter Bread
Former San Antonio paralegal Debra Auden is a law unto herself when it comes to baking—she learned by trial and very little error. Three years ago, she made her first loaf of Italian peasant bread. It turned out so well that she started selling bread to friends before opening a
Recipes
January 20, 2013
State Fare: 1015 Stuffed Onion
The lowly onion gets glamour lessons from Davasha Stalarow, the executive chef at Houston’s new 8.0 restaurant (3745 Greenbriar, Houston). The Dallas-based 8.0 has long prided itself on being a bastion of home cooking away from home, specializing in healthful food to nourish both body and soul.The Houston outpost keeps
Recipes
January 20, 2013
State Fare: Mick Vann’s Tamale-Stuffed Game Hens
At Austin’s Majestic Diner, co-owner and chef Mick Vann gives the royal treatment to even the simplest entrée. Vann has been cooking for twenty years (the last seven at Clarksville Cafe in Austin), and he still has a knack for the unexpected: whole leaves of spinach in spanakopita and a
Recipes
January 20, 2013
State Fare: EZ’s Four-Cheese Pizza
This vigorous melding of ricotta, Gorgonzola, Parmesan, and mozzarella cheeses with assertive herbs epitomizes the free-and-easy style of EZ’s, Cappy Lawton’s newest San Antonio restaurant. The Lawtons’ dinnertime joke was, “Let’s go someplace easy,” but few nearby restaurants fit that description. So when the Waitz Model Market relocated, Cappy nabbed
Recipes
January 20, 2013
State Fare
From Austin’s Eastside Cafe come three soups that will bowl you over.
Recipes
January 20, 2013
Summer Soups
Recipe from Ruth Carter, soups-and-specials cook at Austin’s Eastside Cafe.Dewberry-Orange4 cups dewberries or blackberries, rinsed 2 cups water 1/2 cup sugar 4 ounces cream cheese 2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice 4 cups fresh orange juice mint leaves for garnish (optional)Combine berries (reserve a few for garnish) with water in a
Recipes
January 20, 2013
Chocolate Mousse Iceberg
Recipe from Lisa Biggerstaff, pastry chef, Dacapo’s on the Parkway, Houston.Mousse9 ounces semisweet chocolate 1 ounces butter, melted 1 pint whipping cream 3 medium eggs 1 1⁄2 teaspoons dark rum 1 tablespoon espresso or strong coffeeMelt chocolate in a double boiler. Melt butter in a pan. Set both aside and
Recipes
January 20, 2013
State Fare
Mesteña’s apple sorbet and walnut-apple flautas are delicious to the core.
Recipes
January 20, 2013
Braeburn Apple Sorbet With Walnut-Apple Flautas
Recipe from Pastry chef Doug Wilson, Mesteña’s, San Antonio.Sorbet1 cup water 1 1/2 cups sugar 8 Braeburn apples, peeled and coredBoil water and sugar for 5 minutes to make a simple syrup. Make fresh apple juice by puréeing apples thoroughly in a food processor and pushing through a fine strainer.
Recipes
January 20, 2013
Fresh Beet, Radicchio, and Goat Cheese Salad
Recipe from chef-owner Lynette Hawkins Mandola, La Mora, Houston.Balsamic Vinaigrette2 tablespoons pancetta (2 or 3 ounces), sliced 1/8-inch thick and then cut into 1/4-inch squares (you may substitute prosciutto) 1 tablespoon plus 2 teaspoons red-wine vinegar 1 tablespoon plus 2 teaspoons balsamic vinegar 1/2 teaspoon sugar 4 tablespoons olive oil
Recipes
January 20, 2013
State Fare: Shrimp and Herbed Goat Cheese Crostini
Tempt summer-singed appetites with this breezy Mediterranean combo: a sensational salad and crisp crostini topped with shrimp and goat cheese from Dallas’ Sambuca (2618 Elm). Executive chef Willem De Froy says contrast is the key: “You pile the peppers, which are sweet, on top of the crostini with goat cheese,
Recipes
January 20, 2013
State Fare: Picnic Special
This alfresco feast from Eureka!, a Dallas restaurant and gourmet-to-go emporium (4011 Villanova), can turn a backyard cookout or tailgate picnic into a classy occasion. A grilled chicken breast marinated in lemon and garlic provides this custom menu’s mainstay, with assistance from an emphatic tomato-basil sauce touched with Parmesan. A
Recipes
January 20, 2013
State Fare: Chile Relleno En Nogada
“A chile relleno doesn’t have to be heavy,” says Arnaldo Richards, the owner of Pico’s in Houston (1427 Lomitas, near Kirby and Southwest Freeway). That’s why he has composed a luscious vegetarian version of Mexico’s traditional pork-stuffed pepper. He eschews the usual egg batter and deep frying in favor of
Recipes
January 20, 2013
State Fare: Key Lime Pie
El Paso’s clubby San Francisco Grill (127A Pioneer Plaza) is a cool downtown retreat from the big-city clamor, and its menu offerings are a far cry from the picante specialties of other local eateries.The Grill’s Key lime pie, a towering drift of sweetly tangy citrus in a nutty toasted crust,
Recipes
January 20, 2013
State Fare
How did the chefs at Dallas’ French Room whip up such a delicious cake? Choc it up to creativity.
Recipes
January 20, 2013
Hot Chocolate Cake
Pistachio and Eggnog Milk Sauce1/2 cup shelled pistachios 4 medium egg yolks 1/2 cup sugar (less if using eggnog, to taste) 1/2 quart whipping cream or eggnog 1 quart milk 1 vanilla bean, splitRoast pistachios at 350 degrees for 10 minutes, chop, and cool. Whisk egg yolks and sugar in
Recipes
January 20, 2013
Bouche de Noelle
After Bruce and Susan Molzan bought the Ruggles Grill four years ago, they revitalized the menu at the sleepy Montrose landmark with his brash cooking style and her luxurious desserts.Both Molzans are graduates of the prestigious Culinary Institute of America in Hyde Park, New York, and their approaches to food
Recipes
January 20, 2013
Bill and Rita Clements’ Apple Cake
1 cup cooking oil 2 cups sugar 3 eggs 2 1/2 cups flour 2 teaspoons baking powder 1 teaspoon salt 1 teaspoon ground cinnamon 1 teaspoon ground nutmeg 1 teaspoon vanilla 4 cups peeled and chopped Granny Smith apples 1 cup chopped pecansPreheat over to 350 degrees. Combine oil and
Recipes
January 20, 2013
Rex Hale’s Shortcake
3 cups Softasilk cake flour 1 cup sugar 1 1/2 tablespoons baking powder 1 teaspoon salt 3/4 cup shortening (Crisco is fine) 3 lightly beaten eggs 1/2 cup milk 2 tablespoons vanilla 2 cups heavy cream 1/4 cup sugar powdered sugarFor Strawberry Shortcake: 2 1/2 pints strawberries 2
Recipes
January 20, 2013
State Fare: Neil Doherty’s Whiskey-Cured Salmon
Neil Doherty, the executive chef at the Marker in Houston’s Adam’s Mark Hotel (2900 Briarpark Drive) was something of a child prodigy. By 21, he was already a head chef in his native Ireland, where he learned the value of cooking with local ingredients such as seaweed and nettles. He
Recipes
January 20, 2013
State Fare: Warm Lobster Tacos
Tacos go uptown in the hands of Dean Fearing. All it takes is a little lobster, jalapeño-spiked cheese, fresh spinach, and Fearing’s snappy yellow-tomato salsa. A signature dish of Dallas’ Mansion on Turtle Creek (2821 Turtle Creek Boulevard), these tony tacos are featured in De Gustibus Presents the Great Cooks’
Recipes
January 20, 2013
Walnut-Crusted Striped Bass
Recipe from The Grape’s chef Jason Gorman.Cranberry-Mango Chutney1/8 cup minced garlic 1 cup cranberry juice 1/2 cup honey 1 cup fresh cranberries 1 small mango, diced 1/2 cup dried apricots, diced 1 stick cinnamon 1 tablespoon diced fresh gingerSauté garlic in a saucepan until golden brown. Add remaining ingredients and
Recipes
January 20, 2013
Vietnamese Fish Tacos
Núóc Mam Dipping Sauce3/4 cup Squid brand fish sauce (núóc mam, available at oriental markets) 1/4 cup rice wine vinegar 2 tablespoons chopped scallions (green onions)Whisk ingredients together and set aside.Vegetable Platter1 head leaf lettuce 1 bunch fresh mint 8 ounces bean sprouts 8 thin spears fresh pineapple, cut lengthwise
Recipes
January 20, 2013
Viet-Tex Redfish Noodle Soup
With just a nip of nuoc mam you’ll be on your way to the cooking frontier of Vietnamese food.
Recipes
January 20, 2013
Tuna With Wasabi Mayo Ginger Slaw
Ginger Slaw2 tablespoons chopped prepared pickled ginger 2 tablespoons juice from pickled ginger 1 tablespoon sugar 1/2 cup rice wine vinegar 1/2 teaspoon sesame oil 1/2 medium head red cabbage, thinly sliced 1/4 head napa or savoy cabbage, thinly sliced 1 carrot, peeled and thinly julienned 1 red bell pepper,
Recipes
January 20, 2013
State Fare: Tortilla-Wrapped Fish
Austin’s beau monde has had a serious crush on Jeffrey’s (1204 West Lynn, Austin) ever since the intimate, unpretentious restaurant opened in 1975. This standard-setting establishment takes a maverick approach to gourmet dining: Executive chef Raymond Tatum, a self-taught cook with a rebel streak, specializes in improvising provocative Southwestern fare
Recipes
January 20, 2013
State Fare: Texas Creole Barbecued Shrimp, Texas Cornbread Pudding, and Jicama Salad
Some like it hot; Texans like it hotter. That’s why Carl Walker, the chef at Brennan’s in Houston (3300 Smith), branded his barbecued shrimp with black pepper and poblano chiles. Double-daring the Southwest palate, he paired the shrimp with his spicy version of a down-home favorite. “I wanted to make cornbread pudding
Recipes
January 20, 2013
State Fare: Swordfish and Chipotle-Mango Sauce
Chef Oscar Mejia’s splashy tropical creations give a summer feel year-round to the menu at the Merchant Prince in Galveston. Located just off the soaring lobby of the beautifully restored 1879 Tremont House hotel (2300 Ship’s Mechanic Row), the intimate restaurant showcases Mejia’s idiosyncratic blend of Caribbean and Southwestern culinary
Recipes
January 20, 2013
Southwestern Crab Cakes
From Cooking: “I, Piscivore” by Gary Cartwright, in the September 1987 issue of Texas Monthly.1 large egg2 tablespoons mayonnaise, crème fraîche, or sour cream2 teaspoons Dijon mustard or the hotter Louisiana Creole mustardPinch of cayenne pepper1/2 teaspoon freshly ground white pepperPinch of salt1/4 teaspoon Worcestershire sauce1 pound
Recipes
January 20, 2013
State Fare: Soft-Shell Crabs with Moqueca Sauce
Resolutely international, Austin’s Clarksville (1205 N. Lamar) draws on a world of culinary influences, from the Far East to South America. A creation that melds the traditions of two continents is the irresistible fried soft-shell crabs in moqueca sauce. The dish originated in northeastern India as pokeka, a seafood stew.
Recipes
January 20, 2013
Shrimp, Lobster, and Crab Cheesecake
Cheesecake1/2 pound cooked Maine lobster 1/2 pound lump crabmeat 1/2 pound cooked jumbo shrimp 1 pound mascarpone cheese 2 pounds cream cheese 5 eggs 1 1/4 cups flour 1/2 bunch scallions, diced Kosher salt and white pepper to tastePreheat oven to 250 degrees.Cut cream cheese into smallish chunks. Allow both
Recipes
January 20, 2013
Crunchy French Toast With Spiced Apples and Coffee Maple Syrup
Recipe from restaurant owner Benjy Levit, Benjy’s, Houston.Coffee Maple Syrup1 cup maple syrup 1/4 cup whole coffee beans, any typePlace syrup and coffee beans in a small nonreactive saucepan and simmer over low heat for a few minutes, then let steep for a couple of hours. Remove beans. (May be
Recipes
January 20, 2013
Shrimp Pulao
3 cups long-grain rice (preferably basmati) 1 large onion 1-inch piece gingerroot, peeled 6 garlic cloves 5 tablespoons peanut oil 1 large tomato, finely chopped 1 1/2 teaspoons poppy seeds Scant 1/2 teaspoon turmeric 3/4 teaspoon each of cumin powder, ground coriander, and Indian red chile powder (or cayenne pepper)
Recipes
January 20, 2013
Nuevo Guacamole
The nontraditional step of cooking the onion and chiles gives them a full, roasted flavor that goes beautifully with the mellow avocado. Just don’t stand too close to the pan while cooking the chiles, or the fumes will burn your nose.2 teaspoons unsalted butter 2 teaspoons vegetable oil 3 serrano
Recipes
January 20, 2013
State Fare: Sesame-Crusted Scallops
In 1980, when Armando Miranda took his first job in America as a line cook, he barely knew a muffin from a mousse. That has changed. In his peregrinations through prominent Houston restaurants, including the River Cafe, he taught himself to cook. Even today he’s a free spirit. “I don’t
Recipes
January 20, 2013
State Fare: Seared Halibut
For more than a year, Houston’s cafe society has been holding its breath in anticipation of the scheduled September reopening of Tony’s (1801 Post Oak Boulevard). Not only has the interior been lavishly remodeled to suggest a restaurant on the Italian Riviera, but owner Tony Vallone and chef Mark Cox
Recipes
January 20, 2013
State Fare: Scrambled Egg Whites With Smoked Salmon, and Roasted Potatoes With Onions
“Brunch isn’t just eggs Benedict anymore,” says Matthew Antonvich, chef-owner of Dallas’ Sipango (4513 Travis), as he whips up a batch of frothy scrambled egg whites studded with morsels of pink smoked salmon and handsomely accessorized with oven-roasted potatoes and caramelized onions. “Five years ago,” says Antonovich, “nobody would have
Recipes
January 20, 2013
Sautéed Shrimp on Cannellini Beans
Radicchio Walnut Salad9 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil 3 tablespoons balsamic vinegar (preferably from Modena) 2/3 cup sugar 1 cup walnut halves 2 heads radicchio, coarsely chopped or torn 3 ounces Gorgonzola, finely crumbled salt and pepper to tasteWhisk oil and vinegar until thick and season with salt and pepper. Set
Recipes
January 20, 2013
Salmon With Saffron Potatoes
Recipe from chef and owner Louise Lamensdorf, Bistro Louise, Fort Worth.Grilled Salmon4 teaspoons coarse sea salt 2 tablespoons sugar 2 tablespoons black pepper 1 cup fresh mint, chopped 4 six-ounce salmon filetsMix first 4 ingredients, rub on salmon, and marinate 2 to 24 hours. Grill (or sauté) filets for 3