Hot ShotsGive these splashy spring cocktails a spin.Why not observe the Mexican holiday of Cinco de Mayo by brushing up on your tequila basics at these tastings and dinners?In Austin, Santa Rita Tex Mex Cantina hosts Tequila Tuesdays the first Tuesday of each month from 6 to 8. On May
I don’t know about you, but when I see the word “hibiscus,” I automatically think, “Any of various chiefly tropical shrubs or trees … having large, showy . . . flowers.” How that delicate floral image got attached to a decidedly Texan, though slickly sophisticated, restaurant in a hot Dallas
The Sipping NewsGive these splashy spring cocktails a spin.THE KISSDragonfly, Hotel ZaZa, Dallas Layers are fashionable in cocktails too. 2 ounces Stolichnaya Razberi vodka 1 ounce fresh lemon juice 1 ounce simple syrup (2 parts sugar briefly boiled in 1 part water and then cooled) 1 ounce Chambord
These are a few of our favorite drinksThey Know Beans Quick, what’s the difference between the Starbucks outlets in Austin, Dallas, Houston, and San Antonio? Answer: nothing. And that’s the trouble. Reassuring as it is to have a corporate caffeine fix on every block, there are times when you just
The long identity crisis is over. The dining room that started out as Ling & Javier and then morphed into Maverick has finally come into its own as Bistro Moderne. And if early visits are any indication, this smartly turned out black-and-cream spot is here to stay. The menu,
Over the past thirty years, I’ve edited or written more than 28,000 restaurant reviews for this magazine. That’s a lot of crème brûlée under the bridge, folks. So what’s my life been like, exactly? And how have I stayed this thin? Good questions.
The Beat Goes OnSteaming, cinnamony, sweet as your darling’s kiss, MEXICAN HOT CHOCOLATE might be the perfect twist on the traditional box of candy this Valentine’s. For each serving, heat a cup of water, milk, cream, or any combination thereof along with about a third of a tablet of Mexican
Innuendo is definitely on the menu at the Strip House, a New York import that is Houston’s latest purveyor of prime beef. The red flocked wallpaper evokes a classy bordello, languorous French burlesque dancers gaze from vintage photos, and at least once a night, the sound system can be counted
Do you suspect that your friends hit the “delete” key whenever they see that you’ve e-mailed them the usual lame, out-of-focus pictures from your vacation? You’re right—which is why you might want to sign up for the Travel and Food Photography Workshop in Mexico this March. Under the keen eyes
As nearly as I can tell, chef Robert Gadsby’s mind is moving at warp speed. His complex, multi-ingredient, Asian-inflected French cuisine took shape when he opened the first Noé restaurant, in the Omni Hotel in Los Angeles, in 2003, and his globe-trotting experiments continue at the second Noé, in
AUSTIN The city’s best ceviche is the platter at unfussy Polvo’s, with its avocado slices and impeccably fresh, lime-marinated tilapia—if you don’t care for a dollop of cocktail sauce in the middle (a Mexican touch), ask the kitchen to omit it. Big chunks of tender tilapia zapped with Bermuda
AUSTIN “Flauta” means “flute”—implying something long, round, and slender—but some of Austin’s finest flautas challenge the definition. Manuel’s does splendid, and unusual, grilled flautas: Toasty-crisp, these folded-over corn tortillas are filled with chicken and served with verde or ranchera sauce and a splash of sour cream; the blocks of
ENCHILADAS: Runners-upAUSTIN At El Chile’s jazzy little converted house, the tomatillo sauce on the chicken enchiladas has ample flavor and a touch of sweetness, and the chile con carne sauce on the Tex-Mex cheese enchiladas is made from real red chiles, not commercial chili powder; but the restaurant’s best
7000 B.C. Indigenous peoples in Mexico and Central America gather and eat wild chiles, paving the way for enchiladas, salsa, and jalapeño poppers. Because corn grows wild and is thus pebbly and stunted, their major food, besides meat, is roasted agave hearts.3500 B.C.Indigenous peoples cultivate chiles for food.1200 B.C. Native
AUSTIN Fonda San Miguel welcomes you to a world of its own through a pair of massive wooden doors. The rustic stenciled walls and artfully faded colors could pass for a centuries-old estate in the Mexican interior. Dignitaries visiting the capital city are invariably dragged (quite happily) to rollicking
AUSTIN Two distinctive takes on migas tie for the city’s best. More like scrambled eggs, the version at Manuel’s two stylish locations is almost fluffy; spiked with not-too-many bits of fried tortilla, serrano, cilantro, tomato, and crisp onion, it is topped with a discreet grating of Monterey Jack cheese.
Rebecca Rather’s recipes for five tempting treats are our holiday gift to you.
I sat down at George and immediately started thinking of words to describe the pristine surroundings—words like “ice,” “light,” and “silver,” not to mention “minimalist,” “pure,” and “serene.” At this new Dallas restaurant from husband-and-wife chefs George and Katie Brown, all the color is in the artwork, the flowers,
I am ashamed to admit that I have sometimes been a little snarky about the quality of restaurants in small towns, but you won’t find me knocking ten-month-old Café 909, in Marble Falls. This Central Texas newcomer is a dandy. The eclectic artwork—such as a convocation of yellow-headed blackbirds—amuses
Pecan-crusted trout, lamb chops with salsa verde and salads wearing fresh flowers.
What, me praise a pizzeria? Two months ago I would have questioned my sanity. But that was before I discovered distinctly un-cheesy Dallas newcomer Fireside Pies. This place has the right stuff: crisp, hand-stretched crusts, classy toppings, substantial salads, and a list of wines that you actually want to
On the outside, this Houston newcomer is black and white. Inside—no joke—it’s red all over: cherry, fire-engine, magenta, crimson, electric pink, and burnt orange. If that caffeinated color scheme doesn’t wake you up, the menu will: With stops in Latin America, Asia, the Mediterranean, and other culinary ports of call,
San Antonio’s most exotic new dining venue, Cebu looks utterly American, with sponge-painted walls and Ella and Louis on the sound system. But open the menu, and you’re in a whole other country: the Philippines, to be precise. Are you ready for kinilaw na manga? I was, especially when the
A pomegranate daiquiri, a spicy poblano quail, and thou: Three hot Texas chefs have whipped up a patio picnic that's sure to put a little spring (and summer) in your step.
Smell of Success Everybody knows about heirloom tomatoes and apples, the historic varieties that have endured for decades or even centuries in garden plots and back yards. But heirloom garlic? Some fifteen years ago, Hallettsville native Anton Bujnoch’s sister bought several heads of garlic at a market in Mexico (nobody
Sitting in T’afia’s smart, quasi-industrial space watching the crowds of noshing, tippling patrons, it occurred to me that Monica Pope, the restaurant’s owner and chef, has given herself a new lease on life. Dishes from her previous Houston venue, Boulevard Bistrot, seemed livelier than ever, and the new creations
I love the scene at Bank Jean-Georges. On my visit, the downtown Houston restaurant hadn’t been open a week and already it was filled with Prada-toting air kissers, dignified couples of a certain age, and the occasional table of passionate eaters like myself who had seized the opportunity to
Attention, Houston: Claire Smith is back. Residents of the Bayou City became the young chef’s loyal followers during the six years that she owned the Daily Review Cafe and mourned when, in 2000, she decamped for Chicago. Happily, it didn’t take too long for her to come to her senses
Now serving: the best new restaurants in Texas, including a glamorous international kitchen in Dallas, a hot sushi spot in Austin, and—the best of them all—a drop-dead room with a globe-trotting menu in Houston.
CAT’S MEOW “Where the heck is that?” everybody said when I announced I was headed to Carol’s at Cat Spring. Good question. Physically, the historic German community (population: 76) is some fifty miles west of Houston. Spiritually, it’s in a world of its own. Winds rustle the live oaks,
The new Fort Worth ristorante Zoë-Italian is molto bene.
After years of writing about chefs, I wanted to get a taste of what it’s like to be one—which is how I found myself browning veal knuckle bones at the fastest-growing cooking school in Texas.
PIE AND MIGHTY Just because you’re too busy to bake a holiday pie doesn’t mean you’re a bad person. Give yourself a break and order one of these superlative pies by mail. The monster apple pie from Texas Heritage Provisions Company, in the East Texas town of Jasper, stands more
Five modern twists on traditional recipes make mincemeat out of store-bought desserts.
What Julia Child is to French cooking, Diana Kennedy is to Mexican: a pioneer in her field with creativity to spare and strong opinions about everything.
Steak Tataki with Citrus Ponzu Recipe by Kent Rathbun, Abacus Executive Chef/Owner Serving Size:8 Preparation Time:1:30STEAK2 pounds sirloin steak — fat removed 8 cloves garlic — minced 6 each shallot — minced 1/4 cup tamari soy sauce 2 ounces ginger — peeled & minced 2 each limes — juiced 2
DUMPLINGS2 ounces sesame oil 4 cloves garlic — minced 2 each shallot — minced 1 stalk lemongrass — minced 2 ounces ginger — peeled and minced 1 pound lobster meat — chopped fine 1/4 cup tamari soy sauce 2 tablespoons sambal chili sauce 1 bunch scallion — chopped 2 tablespoons
FIRE AND ICE Autumn will arrive on September 23 and fall fashions have been in the stores forever, but as usual, the thermometer might as well be hanging in a sauna. What to do? Have the season-spanning drink known as an affogato—a shot of espresso poured over a scoop of
HORSING AROUND My latest favorite spot for a cheap date is Pegaso Café Mexicano y Taquería, a bustling eat-and-run place in the heart of Dallas’ downtown financial district. At breakfast and lunch, this retro-hip creation of local restaurateur Monica Greene is all business. You line up, place your entrée
Don't make the mistake I did in assuming that Dallas dining is a white-bread world. This is the Latin Century, and these days Big D is all about Nuevo Latino.
Four restaurateurs talk about Tex-Mex, chile con queso, chips, and heartburn.
NOT MY BACK YARD What’s in a name—or, rather, a slogan? To me, the “gourmet backyard cuisine” at Jasper’s in Plano is about 90 percent gourmet and 10 percent backyard (not that there’s anything wrong with that). What’s more, curtains made of bronze mesh and arty room dividers of pencil-thin
Nachos, tomatillo sauce, chile con queso—will the real Mexican food please stand up? A crash course in Texans’ favorite fusion fare.
WHEN IT COMES TO CONDITIONED responses, Pavlov’s dog has nothing on me. All you have to do is whisper the names of New Orleans’ fabled restaurants—Brennan’s, Galatoire’s, Commander’s Palace, K Paul’s, Bayona, Antoine’s, Emeril’s—and I’ll be salivating at the thought of snowy white crabmeat simmering in an ocean of butter
AMERICAN PIE We hold this truth to be self-evident: that no Fourth of July celebration is complete without the consumption of vast quantities of fried chicken, potato salad, cherry pie, and such. If you don’t have a time-honored family recipe for cherry pie, you might consider starting a tradition by
WATER WORLD Take to the water the Texas way this summer—in a tube on a river. If you want sustenance afterward, check out these three favorites of ours. The behemoth of Central Texas river restaurants is the 950-seat Gristmill in the historic hamlet of Gruene, on the Guadalupe. With nearly
PETAL PUSHERS So many edible flowers covered our plates that we thought about requesting machetes to hack our way to the food. But, hey, we weren’t complaining; that’s what we had come for. Six days a week chef Edward Vervais of the Carriage House Kitchen at the San Antonio
