The moment we entered the smoke-filled patio and beheld the meats-a-plenty (brisket, chicken, pork ribs, pork chops, sausage, sirloin, turkey breast, and venison sausage), we knew we were in business. The pitman was patient as we made our exacting selections, then—plop, joy: the tenderest of briskets, the thickest of pork chops, the happiest of bellies.

Photograph by Chuck H W

The moment we entered the smoke-filled patio and beheld the meats-a-plenty (brisket, chicken, pork ribs, pork chops, sausage, sirloin, turkey breast, and venison sausage), we knew we were in business. The pitman was patient as we made our exacting selections, then—plop, joy: the tenderest of briskets, the thickest of pork chops, the happiest of bellies.

We aren’t surprised that Bryce Gilmore, the brains and creative talent behind Barley Swine and Odd Duck Farm to Trailer, has been named one of the 2011 Best New Chefs by Food & Wine. He’s been on our radar for quite some time (his father, Jack Gilmore, was the chef at Z’Tejas before starting up Jack Allen’s Kitchen). Think back to 2009, when Bryce opened Odd Duck Farm to Trailer, in Austin, and revolutionized the trailer scene by sourcing 100 percent of his ingredients locally. Even Tony Bourdain made an appearance. His latest venture, Barley Swine, is a 35-seat spot on South Lamar that specializes in beer and pork (think small, shareable plates). We remember our last visit well–that first bite of the soft-boiled egg with crispy stuffed pig’s foot, mushrooms, and mustard was a revelation, the perfect melding of textures and flavors. We’d better hurry back before it gets too crowded to get our foot in the door. Read an interview with Bryce about the shift from mobile to brick and mortar.