Eat My Words

Eat My Words|
March 24, 2008

Eat Tyson’s Lunch . . . Er, Dinner

Here’s a proudly biased and partisan assessment of the “Iron Chef America” showdown last night between Austin’s Tyson Cole and iron chef Morimoto: Our boy wuz robbed! The loss by the executive chef of Uchi Japanese fusion restaurant to Morimoto was roundly booed by

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March 18, 2008

Wine & ‘Cue?

The April issue of Food & Wine has a feature on Hill Country barbecue and wine. Ok–so they really focused more on the wine. And they were surprisingly positive about it. By and large, I think they gave proper credit to those vineyards that are making great

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March 3, 2008

The Kids Are All Right

Yesterday, I saw the future of Texas chefdom. I was blown away. The occasion was the final cook-off for the $15,000 Stephan Pyles Culinary Scholarship, which is named for the famous Dallas chef and awarded through the auspices of the Wine and Food Foundation of Texas. The finalists, three

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January 28, 2008

Steaks, Seafood, & Whiskey–Back to Basics

Attention, Fort Worth: The old Pedro’s Trailer Park location at 2731 White Settlement Road is getting an extreme makeover. Chefs/restaurateurs Grady Spears (Dutch’s, Fort Worth) and Lou Lambert (Lamberts Downtown Barbecue, Austin, pictured) have thrown in together and will open a modern Texas steakhouse there in a couple

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January 27, 2008

Top Quality at Mikado Ryotei

Months ago a friend of mine praised Mikado Ryotei for their sushi. So after a 5 hour commute back into Austin for the second weekend in a row, I decided that I wanted sushi. The last time I went for sushi I visited Maiko. The first time I

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January 25, 2008

Texas, Our Texas, All Hail the Mighty Plate

I used to think that only native Texans could love Texas the way it should be loved, but Scott Cohen has proved me wrong. The San Antonio chef recently published a cookbook, The Texas Hill Country: A Taste of Provence, which brims over with his enthusiasm for all things

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January 22, 2008

The Grove–Groovy

The Grove–the futuristic-looking new downtown Houston restaurant from chefs Robert Del Grande of Cafe Annie and Ryan Pera formerly of 17–is definitely all it’s cracked up to be. Approaching the low-slung entry, you worry you’ve arrived at the rear. Then you go inside, and the whole thing opens up

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January 20, 2008

Tacodeli Never Disappoints

Austinites may not know about Tacodeli, but people who visit the Austin Farmer’s Market regularly know of the little taco stand that brings breakfast tacos and lunch tacos. Austin360 named it best breakfast taco winner of 2007.My boyfriend is fond of the chicken frontero fondido and he’s not the only

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January 16, 2008

Bacon and Eggs with a Side of Nice

Nothing says welcome home to Texas like friendly folks, and no place could’ve welcomed me back to Austin on a recent weekend visit like Counter Café. It wears well the casual-cool thing that has always made me love this city (no fancy pants Domain/2nd Street District thing here). The food

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January 13, 2008

Mood Control

I was in such a bad mood after fighting the parking behind Dutch’s, in Fort Worth, on the first day of the city’s annual whoopdedoo rodeo that I was ready to bite somebody’s head off. “Why are you morons doubled-parked in your gigantic pickup trucks,” I shouted to myself

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January 5, 2008

Do It Yourownself

The other day, my friend the Constant Eater showed up with this adorable notebook. Her son gave it to her for Christmas, and it’s for food freaks, so they can take notes on their favorite places just like restaurant reviewers do.Of course, my selfish interest in promoting it is that

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January 4, 2008

No Fear of Chicken-Frying at Fearing’s

In Texas, there is nothing that cannot be chicken-fried, including–now–a lamb chop. At chef Dean Fearing’s swank outpost at the Ritz-Carlton in Dallas, the six-ounce, golden-brown mega-morsel comes pounded so thin it overflows the plate, just like it’s supposed to. Of course, you have to wrap your mind around

Eat My Words|
December 31, 2007

Southwestern Sparkler

If reducing your carbon footprint by eating more organic and local food has popped up on a resolution list, here’s a way to usher in the new year in a more sustainable, but still delicious way. Gruet champagnes are made next door in New Mexico outside of Albuquerque by

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December 29, 2007

For Pancake Life Listers

Here’s the word: Pfannekuchen. Well, actually, three words: Munchener Apfel Pfannekuchen. German apple puffed pancakes. They reach their apex at the Mangnolia Pancake Haus in San Antonio. Dark and toasty brown, these monsters spill off the plate. They’re not fluffy, like American pancakes; they remind me more

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December 20, 2007

Yogi Berra

“When you come to a fork in the road, take it.” Or in this case, take your spoon over to the new Yogo Berry on South Congress. Fans of tangy frozen yogurt of the cult Pinkberry (now highlighted in the AMEX Plum ads) will understand the allure of this no-fat

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December 18, 2007

Love at First Bite

Here’s to the really thin, crusty pizza like the one with (yum) tomato, pecorino cheese, spinach, mozzarella, truffle oil and a soft-cooked egg at Sagra. This is the cool little trattoria and enoteca that opened up in Mars’ old location at 1610 San Antonio, in Austin (512-535-5988). It’s pretty

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December 14, 2007

Honky Tonk Holiday

Now, I am not one to claim that dance halls are fine dining establishments, but they are part of what makes a holiday ring true for this Texan. Somehow I always seem to make my way to a honky tonk over the holidays, even if

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December 11, 2007

The Original Red Meat

Let me just say the cover makes me salivate. The huge Akaushi ribeye with its perfect marbling just makes me want to throw the cover on the grill and sear it. However, that would cause more problems than I want and a possible trip to the ER.Now I like steak

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December 10, 2007

Hey, Tre, It’s Been Good To Know Ya

Tre Wilcox–the personable guy who was on Top Chef last season–is leaving Abacus, in Dallas, at the end of the year. I tracked him down in the kitchen there; you could hear the pots and pans clanking around. He says he’s got more opportunities than he can shake

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December 3, 2007

What’s Her Beef?

In the “You Heard It Here First” department, I just want to say that fabulous Texas-raised Akaushi beef (see our cover story) is taking off. Chef Rebecca Rather is serving Akaushi sliders at her new restaurant in Fredericksburg, Rebecca’s Table. She reports the mini-burgers are selling like hotcakes.

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November 29, 2007

What the Heck Does This Have to Do With Steaks?

The Garcia Art Glass company in San Antonio has come up with the perfect stocking stuffer for the steak lover on your holiday list: an oil lamp entitled “Rare.” (It’s even peppered.) They also sell “Medium,” and “Well-done.” Why would anyone dream up such a thing? Easy. Company owner

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November 28, 2007

Always Shuck Your Tamales

I was heartily amused by this NYT article about what presidential wannabes are eating during their swing-state stops. Tagline: “Like everything else on the campaign trail, even the eating is political.” Thus, the Gray Lady sees fit to document not only what the prezzies do, say, and wear,

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November 28, 2007

Sticky Fingers

Kudos to Tracy Claros, Austin owner of the Sticky Toffee Pudding Company–she got a shout-out today in the New York Times story on mail-order gifts for the holidays. Those wonderful cakey, puddingy desserts that she makes are indeed irresistible. We should know: We couldn’t stop eating them when

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November 27, 2007

Can they really cancel Emeril?

In class, I catch the yahoo.com news headline, “Food Network canceling ‘Emeril Live.'” Now I know Anthony Bourdain would give a huge speech on how Emeril is finally going away and it is better service to the Food Network and America. But I grew up with Emeril. He was

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November 26, 2007

How About Them Cowboys?

This just in: Fort Worth chef Grady Spears (you remember Reata, right, and the Chisholm Club?) of recently opened Dutch’s at 3009 S. University Dr. is working on a new cookbook. It’s going to be called The Cowboy Way, and it’s being done with long-time collaborator and

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November 19, 2007

No Fear of Frying (Turkeys)

How can it be turkey time again? I got all nostalgic for the deep-fried turkey recipe we published a few years ago, courtesy of Fort Worth chef Grady Spears. It was fabuloso, with a cinnamon-chile-brown sugar rub on the outside. And it cooked fast, too. I remember it all too

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November 19, 2007

First Battle…Symon wins

Yes, I was biased last night, when Symon appeared at his first battle against Ricky Moore, Washington D.C. chef. I wanted Symon to lose. I wanted him to be embarrassed. I wanted to do a little happy dance that Food Network screwed up. But no–Food Network got the last laugh,

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November 18, 2007

The Mark of Marco

You need to know this the next time you’re in Houston: You can have a smaller, selected edition of Marco Wiles’ fantastic food for a little more than half the price he charges at Da Marco. All you have to do is sashay down to 500 Westheimer Road to

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November 15, 2007

Salvation on 34th

I first found this pizza place for a photo assignment for a past job. The family-owned restaurant wowed me with its Neapolitan style pizza (thin crust is the only way to go). Salvation Pizza is a fitting name for the red house on 34th street in

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November 12, 2007

John Besh gets the axe

Oh I almost cried, John Besh (Food and Wine’s Best New Chef 1999) wasn’t named the next Iron Chef! Instead I screamed, I threw a fit, I showed a whole new side of myself to my boyfriend.I followed most of the shows since the beginning, always hoping Besh would win.

Eat My Words|
November 12, 2007

Espresso in Dripping Springs–Who Knew?

You gotta love those small Texas towns. But so often, after you hit the candle shops on the town square, you’re in the mood for a decent cuppa, and guess what: There is none. Well, things just got better in Dripping Springs, southwest of Austin. I stopped at the Rockin’

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November 9, 2007

Passing the Torchy

If buzz counted for everything instead of nearly everything, Torchy’s Tacos would be Austin’s top-rated restaurant. Of course, it’s not a restaurant: It’s a trailer parked in a vacant lot across from El Mercado at the intersection of South First and Gibson. You’d be forgiven for missing it, or for

Eat My Words|
November 6, 2007

Pretty Corny

I’ve got to hand it to my pal Bud Kennedy, popular columnist for the Fort Worth Star Telegram. Bud specializes in ferreting out fascinating stuff about his home city and Texas, and now he has tracked down the name of the unsung hero who might be called the stepfather of

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November 2, 2007

Oh, Mama! Umami!

Who knew that cacao (which comes from trees, left) and truffles (the kind that grow in the ground) were so beautiful together?The best dessert that I tasted at the cool Arts and Eats fest in San Antonio last night was Bin 555’s Chocolate Torte (think flourless dark-chocolate cake) topped

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November 1, 2007

Flaky, Buttery, Delicious Goodness

A recent trip to Rush Patisserie in Dallas’ Deep Ellum district reminded me how much croissants are shortchanged on the breakfast breads list. They are a true breakfast treat; they’re not just for sandwiches, contrary to current trends. And bagels, really, are they that good? My mother notes that

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October 29, 2007

Frisco Shop Saved, Moving Down the Street!!!

Old-time Austinites (such as moi) mourned the passing of first one and then another branch of the once-legendary Night Hawk chain. The last one standing now is the Frisco Shop, just south of the intersection of Burnet Road and Koenig Lane. A national drugstore is going in there

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October 28, 2007

Silver Lining in Johnson City

Often when I pass through Johnson City, I see the sign for Silver K Cafe and want to sit down for a meal. This past Saturday, I finally sat down at the table.The cafe is on 290 West on your way to Fredericksburg. If you’re driving too fast

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October 25, 2007

Too Much Thinking Outside the Bun

On the heels of discussing Tex-Mex cuisine, let us consider the larger category of Ameri- Mex. I nearly lost my tacos a few weeks ago when I read about Taco Bell’s move into the Mexico market. They tried once before and didn’t make the grade. Go figure. This second attempt

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October 24, 2007

Step Away from the Computer, Mr. Drape

For the love, Mr. Drape, you should have stopped before you even began. Granted, myself being in Boston and in a whole new world of food, I can understand wanting to gush and “celebrate” a less-familiar cuisine. But a few things—okay, a lot of things—about Joe’s M.O. are really confusing.

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October 24, 2007

The Shame of the Yankees

ESPADRILLES? Since when are espadrilles Texans’ “indigenous footwear”??? In his lead to the most pathetic article on Tex-Mex food I’ve ever read (in today’s New York Times “Dining Out” section), non-native-Texan Joe Drape says espadrilles are our native shoe. Dude: Espadrilles are French.

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October 22, 2007

The Locavore’s Dilemma

Back in September, fueled by a diet of mealy apples and concern about global warming, I signed up for a CSA share. CSA stands for “community supported agriculture;” it’s a small farm that sells food directly to, you got it, members of the community. Mine is called Johnson’s

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October 16, 2007

Something fishy about this ice cream…

Last Friday night, My Table Magazine and the Houston Food & Beverage ManagersAssociation sponsored the 23rd Annual Caesar Salad Competition. Chefs could compete in either classic and creative Caesar salad divisions with a separate award for presentation. The third “salad” arrived in a conical Dixie cup: a Caesar salad ice

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October 15, 2007

You Don’t Need To Go To Napa

Texas Wines are becoming more well known. The Hill Country is alive with visitors from Austin to Connecticut. And these travelers have many choices, actually 21 of them.As a beginning wine connoisseur, I have knowledge not extensive, but I know how to swirl, to smell, to taste. I forget what

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October 13, 2007

Wine Lovers Take Note

We’re still taken with our little neighborhood wine store, Vinosity (3500 Jefferson, off 35th Street near Mopac, in Austin; 512-420-9111). The space is sleek, the selection diverse, and the prices fantastic. The small plates (read: tapas) are delicious and perfect for nibbling while tasting a variety of domestic and international

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