Eat My Words

Eat My Words |
May 18, 2011

Go for the Paella, Stay for the Flamenco Music

I didn’t get around to Central Market until four days after their big “Pasaporte España”—“Passport Spain”—extravaganza had started. I’m kicking myself, because I’ve already missed a Spanish wine tasting and a couple of classes that sounded really good. But last Saturday I did stumble on the paella man, who

Eat My Words |
April 25, 2011

Meat and Greet

Years ago, I was under the impression that every Texan knew what a salt lick was, loved the smell of hay in an old barn, and knew better than to request chocolate pie for dessert, lest one be handed a cow patty from the fields. But a dear friend of

Eat My Words |
April 20, 2011

Cook Like a Texan “Letter to the Editor”

On March 29 we received this letter to the editor: The greasy slop recipes in Home Plates are disgusting, the photos were stomach turning. The chili looked like diarrhea, the meat was charred and carcinogenic, and anything fried and/or covered in cheese and grease is disgusting. The enchiladas look

Eat My Words |
April 19, 2011

We’re All Iron Chefs in Texas

It was when I was talking to our cover boy, Buffalo Gap Ranch owner Tom Perini, about frying chicken, that I realized something: The common denominator in a good half of the dishes we feature in our April cover story, “Cook Like a Texan,” is a cast-iron vessel. Think about

Eat My Words |
April 19, 2011

Cook Like the Homesick Texan

I spent the last seven years living away from Texas - that's right, got back as fast as I could - and there were times, especially in smallish Missoula, Montana, that the best restaurant in town with Texas food was certainly our kitchen. That wouldn't have happened without Lisa Fain,

Eat My Words |
April 18, 2011

Scenes From Buffalo Gap Wine & Food Summit

How had six years gone by since I attended the Buffalo Gap Wine and Food Summit? It’s the best of the small-scale wine and food fests in Texas–maybe in the country–and the most scenic, with walk-around tastings under the live oaks behind the Perini Ranch Steakhouse and a

Eat My Words |
April 16, 2011

Leave the Lard. Take the Frijoles

(Photo courtesy of Sylvia's Enchilada Kitchen) Last month, Sarah Kliff, a food and travel writer for the BBC, visited Texas. It was on the half-hour flight between Houston and Austin that realized I might be descending into some culinary trouble. I, a vegetarian for a decade now, was flipping

Eat My Words |
April 15, 2011

June Naylor on “Cook Like a Texan,” Foodways Texas

A sixth-generation Texan and 30-year food writer, June Naylor’s passionate about food, about Texas, and about the intersection of the two: While she was working on this month’s “How to Cook Like a Texan” cover story, she was also busy promoting the 9-month-old Foodways Texas, an organization dedicated to

Eat My Words |
April 15, 2011

Smoke It Yourself: Franklin More Crowded Than Ever

Photograph by Jody Horton Talk about the saying, “nothing succeeds like success”: The instant that Austin’s Franklin Barbecue moved into its new, bigger, brick-and-mortar location at 900 West 11th (512-653-1187), it had already outgrown the space. I asked owner Aaron Franklin about this

Eat My Words |
April 14, 2011

Cook Like a Texan: More Last Meals

Our April “Home Plates” package included “Last Meals” from Jim Lehrer (“no dessert or coffee” – with good reason), Willie Nelson, Jason Moran (who takes up for mac-and-cheese as a vegetable), Charles Butt, Karen Hughes and Governor Rick Perry (bing-cherry congealed salad with cream cheese and pecan topping –

Eat My Words |
April 13, 2011

How Do YOU Cook Like a Texan?

If I’ve learned one thing in 36 years of writing about food, it’s that everybody’s a critic—and Texans, being naturally ornery, are more opinionated than most. So when we here at the magazine decided to do our April cover story on the topic “Cook Like a Texan,”

Eat My Words |
April 11, 2011

Eat (All) Your Spring Greens

Yesterday evening, while my husband and I were out admiring our highly productive (read: are you tired of lettuce yet?) raised vegetable gardens in the backyard, the neighbor called us over to ask us a very important question. “Say,” he started, beer in hand, “Would y’all mind it if my

Eat My Words |
April 6, 2011

High on Fried Pies at 4000-plus Feet in Marfa

I suppose you could call it a working vacation, but since I’m in Marfa (staying at the Paisano Hotel, loafing around, going to see Donald Judd’s magical aluminum boxes, hanging out at the bookstore), the vacation part seems to have priority. But, still, after dessert today at the

Eat My Words |
April 5, 2011

It Ain’t Odd

We aren’t surprised that Bryce Gilmore, the brains and creative talent behind Barley Swine and Odd Duck Farm to Trailer, has been named one of the 2011 Best New Chefs by Food & Wine. He’s been on our radar for quite some time (his father, Jack Gilmore,

Eat My Words |
April 3, 2011

Sunday’s Fare

(scroll over the photos to see captions; click to see full photos) Imagine a farmers market on steroids. Now add alcohol. Hey! You’ve got the Texas Hill Country Wine and Food Festival’s sold-out Sunday fair. Despite the scorching 85-degree weather, everyone had a grand time at this large gathering of

Eat My Words |
April 3, 2011

Josh Ozersky Attempts to Make a Hamburger

On Friday, April 1, food writer Josh Ozersky (he composes the Taste of America column for Time magazine and was formerly the editor of New York magazine’s don’t-miss food blog, Grub Street) spoke on the ideal hamburger, the burger of his dreams. He’s entitled. The man wrote the book

Eat My Words |
April 1, 2011

Get Milk!

You don’t have to be a posh Londoner to try the latest ice cream craze. The Icecreamists shop in the U.K. may be selling their infamous “Baby Gaga” flavor, made with breast milk, vanilla, and lemon zest, but D Cup, a hip new spot here in

Eat My Words |
March 24, 2011

Trailer Thursday: Lee’s Hurricane Party

Fat Tuesday may have already flashed across Sixth Street this year, but you don’t need a holiday excuse to eat at Lee’s Hurricane Party, at the Longhorn Food Court, in West Campus. This Cajun trailer serves up some of the best gumbo and grub in town, year-round.

Eat My Words |
March 21, 2011

Here Are the Texas Finalists in the James Beard Awards

As they say, there’s good news and there’s bad news. The good news is that three Texas chefs are final nominees for the James Beard Foundation awards for Best Chef: Southwest–they are Bruce Auden (Biga on the Banks, San Antonio); Bryan Caswell (Reef, Houston); and Tyson Cole (Uchi, Austin). That’s

Eat My Words |
March 17, 2011

Trailer Thursday: SXSW Edition

    SXSW is not just about the music. Let’s be realistic: It’s about waiting in line. But anyone can wait in line, anywhere. The doctor’s office, H-E-B, Six Flags. Oh, but how to cozy into the cool queue rather than trail in the terminal tier! Don’t worry. With a

Eat My Words |
March 10, 2011

Trailer Thursday: Man Bites Dog

Who cares how the sausage gets made? We’re back in Austin this week, and Man Bites Dog’s beef franks, brats, and sausages are so scrumptious that you’ll soon find yourself shoveling them in as if you’re part of a one-man hot dog eating contest. The front-runner was

Eat My Words |
March 4, 2011

Blood, Bones & Butter: Read It

Gabrielle Hamilton owns Prune Restaurant, in New York. You might have even eaten there. A tiny, awkward place in the East Village. Very much a stop on the food-lover’s circuit. Well, now she’s written a passionate, pull-out-the-stops, utterly intense memoir of her life as a chef, and I cannot

Eat My Words |
March 3, 2011

Trailer Thursday, San Antonio: Saweet Cupcakes

Last week we took a little road trip to a place called Bizarro Austin, otherwise known as Portland. While we’re out on the highway, let’s meander down to San Antonio and see what they’ve got going on in the world of trailers. Word on the street is that the new

Eat My Words |
March 1, 2011

Uchi the Cookbook Is Absolutely Gorgeous

I don’t usually review cookbooks in this space. I mean, hello, I eat out for a living. But every now and then a cookbook comes along that is such a great read and has such dazzling photography that I can’t put it down. Uchi, the Cookbook is one of those.

Eat My Words |
February 24, 2011

Trailer Thursday: PBJ’s

    You’re walking through the east side. In front of you dashes a flannel-clad hipster, carrying recycling on the back of his bike. Suddenly he pulls over, to a food trailer park brimming with trucks featuring quirky names and colorful, kitschy exteriors. You’re in Austin, right? Not so fast.

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February 17, 2011

Trailer Thursday: Coreanos

One, two, three, four. I declare a food truck war! Spotted: The Coreanos guy grinning sly while saying, “We tried what Chi’Lantro had to offer, and we thought we could do better.” Them’s L.A. fightin’ words! He wasn’t just blowing smoke from the grill,

Eat My Words |
February 14, 2011

Root Beer: Not Just for Floats Anymore

Forget chocolate-covered strawberries, dozens of roses, and the fondu pot. No, all you need to woo your Valentine today is this recipe. Sure, it’s a little labor-intensive, but trust me. It’s worth the time, the effort, and all the pre-baking finger-licking you can handle. And here’s a plus: if you

Eat My Words |
February 10, 2011

Trailer Thursday: Bits & Druthers

  The United Kingdom isn’t exactly known for its culinary choices. Toad-in-the-hole, bangers and mash, spotted dick: Foods you might eat for dinner, alternative names for a heart attack, or the titles of the porno flicks your creepy neighbor watched last night? Continuing in that nominal tradition, we have

Eat My Words |
February 4, 2011

Just Rename It “Diners, Drive-ins and Pies”

Just got a note from co-owner Lori Horn at Dough Pizzeria: The Food Network show “Diners, Drive-ins and Dives” recently filmed at Dough. Say what??! Dough is the classiest pizzeria I’ve ever been to. Has Diners host Guy Fieri run out of low-life eateries? Or maybe he’s turning over

Eat My Words |
February 3, 2011

Trailer Thursday: Little Thai Food

    Little Thai Food rocks it old-school. Not in the Old School BBQ & Grill kind of way, with a website, a Facebook page, and a Twitter account. Or in the elementary school way, like the Local Yolk, which serves only one type of

Eat My Words |
January 31, 2011

What’s Cooking When It’s Cold Out?

Rumor has it that temperatures are going to drop rather drastically tomorrow. While most of us Texans enjoyed a spring-like Sunday, now we’re going to have to face the bleak fact that we are, indeed, still in the middle of winter. Who knew? A native Texan, I’m a fan of