–the futuristic-looking new downtown Houston restaurant from chefs Robert Del Grande of Cafe Annie and Ryan Pera formerly of 17–is definitely all it’s cracked up to be. Approaching the low-slung entry, you worry you’ve arrived at the rear. Then you go inside, and the whole thing opens up like a glowing glass box. In the lounge there are those cool acrylic “Louis Ghost” chairs by Philippe Starck and other art-cum-function furniture. Onward to the menu: it’s easy to like and understand, no frou-frou. Yet it’s not so basic it’s totally geared toward the tourist trade. Best of an early sampling were the hanger steak, the duck meatballs, and the Hatterman’s Farm deviled eggs. Watchers of boldface types, take note: Houston society has latched on. Spotted on this visit were Charles Hurwitz and Sharon Bush (no, not together!).