She may not have been a lady who lunches in the traditional sense, but she sure knew how to lunch: The woman standing in front of me at the Peached Tortilla ordered Belgian fries and peach poppers. Granted, the hand-cut fries rocketed out of this world when combined with peach-mint dipping sauce, and the fried poppers with powdered sugar and vanilla glaze looked like they could send me around the sun and back. But I feel sorry for said lady: She missed out on some smokin’ tacos and sliders. My favorite was the barbecue brisket slider. Some may say that’s boring; I say it’s classic. Dressed up with a sweet buttered-and-grilled Hawaiian bun, roasted peach barbecue sauce, and creamy coleslaw, this sandwich was elevated to the next level. I also liked the crunchy catfish taco, with cornmeal-encrusted, tender catfish, bacon-spiked mustard greens, and coleslaw on a griddle-warmed flour tortilla, and the delightfully cilantro-laden Szechuan veggie taco, with tender Japanese eggplant, diced tofu, and Asian slaw. Are you noticing a pattern here? The common denominator at this Asian–comfort food fusion trailer is slaw. Now, in the interest of full disclosure, I should mention that I’ve always had a thing against coleslaw. Maybe it’s because my father’s name is Cole, and anything that included him as a side dish seemed a little suspicious. Regardless, I’ve never quite gotten on board. But back to the cabbage at hand. Jalapeño or Asian, both slaws overwhelmed the tacos and sliders with bland creaminess. In fact, in almost every offering, the proportions were off-kilter. I wanted more tasty mustard greens and less of the ubiquitous you-know-what on the catfish taco, as well as less cabbage and curry peanut sauce on the soppy chicken satay taco. I liked the chiffoned basil and sweet summer squash on the southern squash taco, but the overabundant basil aioli and sweet onions rendered it inedible; similarly, the slightly dry báhn mì slider lacked spicy sriracha mayo but was swamped with carrot salad. And we all know that carrot salad is just a substitute for slaw. So please, Peached Tortilla, lay off the slaw, for all our sakes. Or don’t—then I’d have the perfect excuse to order fries and peach poppers for lunch. (Oh, and if you want to get your hands on any of these sliders or tacos while surrounding yourself with awesomeness, check out the Gypsy Picnic this Saturday at Auditorium Shores, from 11 to 8. Thirty trailers. Live music. Sampler plates for $3 or less. Did I mention thirty trailers, all in one place? See you there.) Posted by Megan Giller
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