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Best Tacos: Fort Worth

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Photographs by Kelsey Foster and Kate Lesueur

Brisket, Mi Cocula Mexican Grill
Type: Modern American
Rating: 4.5
Price: $12/plate
At this hidden shopping-center gem, tender shreds of smoked beef mingle with grilled onion inside miniature corn tortillas, glistening with melted jack cheese (add a dab of the salsa de chile pasilla). The tacos al pastor, pork tips loaded with grilled pineapple and red onion, shouldn’t be overlooked either. 6550 Camp Bowie Blvd, 817-708-2895. Sun–Thur 11–9, Fri & Sat 11–10.


Carnitas, Taco Heads
Type: Classic Mexican
Rating: 4.5
Price: $3
To choose just one item from this enduring taco trailer—soon to occupy its first building, at 1812 Montgomery—is torture, but we keep returning to the shredded pork, wrapped inside a corn tortilla and topped with queso fresco, onion, cilantro, and grilled jalapeño. It tastes even better when you add a slice of avocado—and follow with a few swigs of chilly Topo Chico. 700 Carroll (multiple locations). Wed–Sat 7 p.m.–2 a.m.


Tacos-El-Capitan-Salsa-Limon-Fort-WorthEl Capitán, Salsa Limón
Type: Classic Mexican
Rating: 4.75
Price: $3
Ever since siblings Ramiro “Milo” and Rosalia Ramirez opened a taco-torta-burrito shop in La Gran Plaza, nearly a decade ago, the Mexico City natives have been redefining taco cravings in Cowtown. Most recently, after expanding to two other locations, including this diner across from the museum district, the duo have made “El Capitán!” a battle cry for hungry hordes. This monster is defined by the extras—Oaxaca cheese, pickled cabbage, onion teased with cilantro—that accompany your protein of choice (we recommend the shredded lengua or the barbacoa). If you’re feeling crazy, order it bomba-style, with a fried egg on top. 929 University Dr, 817-820-0680 (multiple locations). Mon–Thur 7–11, Fri & Sat 7–3 a.m., Sun 7–9.


Puffy Taco, Pulido’s
Type: Puffy
Rating: 4
Price: $8.65/plate
Puffed into a bowl shape, the fried corn tortilla is tissue-thin but just sturdy enough to hold the lush, old-school mix of spicy ground beef, frijoles, coarsely grated American cheese, and shredded lettuce and tomato. Equally nostalgic: the perky tomato salsa. 2900 Pulido, 817-732-7571 (multiple locations). Mon–Thur 11–9:30, Fri & Sat 11–10.


Roasted Pork, Granny’s Tacos
Type: Modern American
Rating: 4
Price: $6
The flour tortillas are pressed by hand, then filled with refried beans, shredded pork, diced potatoes, and cheddar cheese to make giant bundles that require a two-fisted approach. Enjoy them outside under the old hackberry tree. 703 E. Long Ave, 817-441-0054. Tue–Sat 11–6.


Tacos-Pato-taco-Revolver-Taco-Lounge-Fort-WorthPato, Revolver Taco Lounge
Type: Classic Mexican
Rating: 5
Price: $20/plate
The seared strips of duck breast with rosy centers are sublime on their own, but at this hip little bistro they’re elevated with a wrapping of delicate corn tortillas (handmade in the restaurant before your eyes), a topping of caramelized onion and TopTacotendrils of green chile, and a finish of tart tomatillo salsa. Revolver’s variety is astonishing, so you’ll want to bring friends along to also order the exquisite pulpo tacos (sautéed octopus layered with pan-fried leek and topped with a velvety jalapeño salsa), huitlacoche tacos (dark and dusky corn fungus), and calabacita tacos (yellow squash and zucchini with corn, tomato salsa, and queso fresco). 2822 W. Seventh, 817-820-0122. Tue–Sat 5 p.m.–10.


Cabrito Paleta, Restaurant Nuevo Leon
Type: Classic Mexican
Rating: 4
Price: $25/platter
Among several cuts of pit-roasted baby goat, tops is the paleta (shoulder). Fork the sizzling-hot shreds onto corn tortillas, then add a dab of guacamole, some charro beans, a little pico, a spritz of lime, and a smidge of the fiery habanero-pasilla salsa. You’ll want a cold bottle of Bohemia at the ready. 1544 Ellis Ave, 817-625-0757. Tue–Sun 11–10.


Barbacoa, La Superior Tortillas y Tacos
Type: Classic Mexican
Rating: 4.25
Price: $1.99
If you’re a tortilla purist, head straight for this taqueria inside a tortilla bakery. It’s a toss-up as to which kind is the best, but the most seductive may be the fluffy flour. Enjoy one with the meltingly good beef cheek, then add a spoonful of fresh pico de gallo. 2822 Azle Ave, 817-624-7804. Mon, Tue & Fri 5–6, Wed & Thur 7–6, Sat 5–4, Sun 5–3.


Tacos-Lamb-Brisket-Woodshed-Smokehouse-Fort-WorthLamb Brisket, Woodshed Smokehouse
Type: Modern American
Rating: 4.25
Price: $2.50/ounce
At this riverside joint, it’s tempting to get the slightly insane banh mi tacos (the pork is marinated in bourbon and Coke), but more compelling is the oak-smoked lamb brisket. Served medium-rare alongside a stack of hybrid tortillas (corn and flour), the char-crusted pieces are punched up with jalapeño salsa and a side of fresh grilled corn. 3201 Riverfront Dr, 817-877-4545. Mon–Thur 10–10, Fri 10–11, Sat 8–11, Sun 8–10.

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