I sat down at George and immediately started thinking of words to describe the pristine surroundings—words like “ice,” “light,” and “silver,” not to mention “minimalist,” “pure,” and “serene.” At this new Dallas restaurant from husband-and-wife chefs George and Katie Brown, all the color is in the artwork, the flowers, and the regional American food. Red, yellow, and purple heirloom tomatoes starred in both a seasonal salad and a terrific amuse bouche (drizzled with extra-virgin olive oil on a crisp toast point). Of two entrées, my companion’s somewhat unevenly cooked steak au poivre in béarnaise was outshone by my perfectly sautéed filet of sea bass, cloud-light in a delicate rice-flour crust, with a novel salad of green mango and red bell pepper alongside. We basked in the glow of an elegant evening.
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