Grady’s Line Camp Steakhouse
Tolar
Grady Spears has set up shop at this ranch-style restaurant in a tiny town near Fort Worth, where rodeo attire abounds and there’s a porch with views of the setting sun. Even better, the food reflects Spears’s famous attention to detail. Bob Armstrong Dip gets an upgrade, with layers of beef tips, cheese, and guacamole served with house-made flour tortilla chips. Chicken-fried steak (not in need of a knife) is buttermilk-and-beer-battered and served with wilted spinach and mashed potatoes. Chicken and dumplings come in a warm crockery bowl with carrots, corn, onions, and a bonus fried chicken wing. The star of our evening was the marvelously tender Dr Pepper–braised short ribs. Bar. 4610 Shaw Rd (254-835-4459). Dinner Wed–Sat 5–9. Closed Sun–Tue. $$ W+
Texas Spice
Dallas
Wander through the sleek marble lobby of the new Omni Hotel (which looks like a tsunami of glass from the outside) into this rustic room, with a locally sourced menu of Texas favorites. “Elemental” describes the roasted red pepper soup; we’d guess it was nothing more than a purée of pepper plus a little cream and a dash of seasoning. Not traditional in any sense of the word was a two-patty bison burger with tangy cheddar cheese and—the crowning touch—a poblano-and-tomato relish. Skip the cloying molasses tart, but do enjoy the great view of the downtown Dallas skyline from the outside patio. Bar. Omni Hotel, 555 S. Lamar (214-652-4810). Open 7 days 6–2 & 5–10. $$ W+
