Food & Drink

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Food & Drink|
February 1, 2004

Season’s Eatings

That’s Amore If your relationship (with your sweetie or with chocolate) needs a jump start this Valentine’s, try one of these novel Texas-made gifts. Austin’s Dr. Chocolate (512-454-0555) promises to cure the Valentine’s Day doldrums with one of its Pizzas d’Amore, cleverly garnished with candied cherries (standing in for pepperoni)

Food & Drink|
February 1, 2004

Shade

Attention, Houston: Claire Smith is back. Residents of the Bayou City became the young chef’s loyal followers during the six years that she owned the Daily Review Cafe and mourned when, in 2000, she decamped for Chicago. Happily, it didn’t take too long for her to come to her senses

Food & Drink|
February 1, 2004

Where to Eat Now 2004

Now serving: the best new restaurants in Texas, including a glamorous international kitchen in Dallas, a hot sushi spot in Austin, and—the best of them all—a drop-dead room with a globe-trotting menu in Houston.

Food & Drink|
January 1, 2004

On The Road

CAT’S MEOW “Where the heck is that?” everybody said when I announced I was headed to Carol’s at Cat Spring. Good question. Physically, the historic German community (population: 76) is some fifty miles west of Houston. Spiritually, it’s in a world of its own. Winds rustle the live oaks,

Food & Drink|
December 1, 2003

WORD OF MOUTH

BOWS TO HOLLEY Mark Holley confesses that interviews make him nervous. But the 44-year-old executive chef of Pesce, a seafood restaurant in Houston, is going to have to get used to the attention, especially if the accolades keep rolling in: My Table, the Bayou City’s foodie magazine, recently named

Food & Drink|
December 1, 2003

PRIMARY FLAVORS

SHOW ME THE COOKIES! I love cookies. They’re a quick, compact treat, perfect for anyone under constant deadline pressure. While reflecting on the subject of cookies recently, I realized that I don’t make them nearly as often as I want to eat them. Instead I rely on the kindness and

Food & Drink|
November 1, 2003

SEASON’S EATINGS

UNDERGROUND GOURMET Troubles with your love life? Truffles could be the answer. We’re speaking of the exotic fungus, a purported aphrodisiac as well as a turn-on for any epicure. Truffles grow underground in Europe (especially France and Italy) and in Oregon, and with the peak of the season each November,

Food & Drink|
November 1, 2003

SHIPPING NEWS

PIE AND MIGHTY Just because you’re too busy to bake a holiday pie doesn’t mean you’re a bad person. Give yourself a break and order one of these superlative pies by mail. The monster apple pie from Texas Heritage Provisions Company, in the East Texas town of Jasper, stands more

Food & Drink|
September 30, 2003

Stirring the Pot

What Julia Child is to French cooking, Diana Kennedy is to Mexican: a pioneer in her field with creativity to spare and strong opinions about everything.

Food & Drink|
August 31, 2003

Word of Mouth

A GOOD SIGN After preparing for an academic career, Houston native Scott Tycer decided instead to do what he loved: cook. He set his sights on owning his own restaurant by age thirty, a feat he accomplished by thirty and a half. Three years later, Aries is thriving in Houston,

Food & Drink|
August 31, 2003

Season’s Eatings

FIRE AND ICE Autumn will arrive on September 23 and fall fashions have been in the stores forever, but as usual, the thermometer might as well be hanging in a sauna. What to do? Have the season-spanning drink known as an affogato—a shot of espresso poured over a scoop of

Food & Drink|
August 31, 2003

Pegaso Café Mexicano y Taquería

HORSING AROUND My latest favorite spot for a cheap date is Pegaso Café Mexicano y Taquería, a bustling eat-and-run place in the heart of Dallas’ downtown financial district. At breakfast and lunch, this retro-hip creation of local restaurateur Monica Greene is all business. You line up, place your entrée

Food & Drink|
July 31, 2003

Primary Flavors

LEAN AND GREEN You can find the slim, distinctive chiles called long greens or Anaheims growing in areas throughout the Southwest United States, but by almost universal assent, the ones cultivated around Hatch, New Mexico, are the best. Supposedly the local soil, altitude, and rainfall provide conditions that make these

Food & Drink|
July 31, 2003

Jasper’s

NOT MY BACK YARD What’s in a name—or, rather, a slogan? To me, the “gourmet backyard cuisine” at Jasper’s in Plano is about 90 percent gourmet and 10 percent backyard (not that there’s anything wrong with that). What’s more, curtains made of bronze mesh and arty room dividers of pencil-thin

Food & Drink|
June 30, 2003

Season’s Eatings

AMERICAN PIE We hold this truth to be self-evident: that no Fourth of July celebration is complete without the consumption of vast quantities of fried chicken, potato salad, cherry pie, and such. If you don’t have a time-honored family recipe for cherry pie, you might consider starting a tradition by

Food & Drink|
June 30, 2003

On The Road

WATER WORLD Take to the water the Texas way this summer—in a tube on a river. If you want sustenance afterward, check out these three favorites of ours. The behemoth of Central Texas river restaurants is the 950-seat Gristmill in the historic hamlet of Gruene, on the Guadalupe. With nearly

Food & Drink|
May 31, 2003

Field Notes

Ah, the supremely simple pleasure of picking a ripe peach from the tree! Unfortunately, many who are used to this annual rite of summer will be disappointed this year, because a late freeze decimated the Hill Country crop. “We are looking at a 99.999 percent loss,” says James Kamas, of

Food & Drink|
May 31, 2003

Season’s Eatings

PETAL PUSHERS So many edible flowers covered our plates that we thought about requesting machetes to hack our way to the food. But, hey, we weren’t complaining; that’s what we had come for. Six days a week chef Edward Vervais of the Carriage House Kitchen at the San Antonio

Food & Drink|
April 30, 2003

Barbecue Joints

ALAMO: Original Willie B’s Bar-B-Q, for its rib botana (Mexican snack) platters; 320 S. Alamo Road, 956-702-1370AUSTIN: County Line on the Lake, for its potato salad not overwhelmed by mayo and sparked by just-right amounts of celery, pickle, and onion; 5204 FM 2222, 512-346-3664BALLINGER: Lisa’s Cafe, for smoked cabbage, available

Food & Drink|
April 30, 2003

Cuts Above

To those who say barbecue is an art form, we say, “Amen.” Presenting the elite meat to eat—along with beans, bread, and sauce—from some of the state’s top pits.

BBQ|
April 30, 2003

Top Fifty

Unless otherwise noted, all places take credit cards.ABILENE: Harold’s Pit Bar-B-Q We didn’t catch pitmaster Harold Christian singing gospel songs to his customers, but we’re told that isn’t an unusual occurrence. This cozy little room, packed with nine picnic tables, seven booths, and a congregation of athletic trophies, is where

Food & Drink|
April 30, 2003

Chain Gang

We admit being partial to the small, independent barbecue joint run by an ornery cuss who has smoke in his eyes and sauce in his veins. But we also concede that chain operations sell some darn good barbecue. So while we included only indies in our top fifty list,

Food & Drink|
April 30, 2003

The Best of the Best

Cooper’s Pit Bar-B-Q MasonThe name “Cooper’s” has long been synonymous with Llano, but now the Mason operation of the same name has overtaken its distant cousin. Cooper’s Pit Bar-B-Q was opened in Mason in 1953 by the late George Cooper, whose son Tommy (also deceased) cloned it a decade later

Food & Drink|
April 30, 2003

Mail Call

NEED A TEXAS-STYLE GIFT for a friend? Barbecue is the answer. Of the many places that ship, we’ve tried and like these. All send the cooked and frozen meat in an insulated box, generally accompanied by reheating instructions. Prices do not include shipping unless otherwise noted.City Market in Schulenburg, 800-793-3440;

Food & Drink|
March 1, 2003

Where to Eat Now

In our annual roundup of the restaurants everyone's talking about, you'll find a bare-bones taquería, a bastion of cowboy chic, a snazzy deconsecrated church—and dishes that range from soup (squash blossom) to nuts (toasted cashews with chocolate-swirled bread pudding). Not to mention a little French place in San Antonio that's

Food & Drink|
April 1, 2002

Perilously Plump

Texans love to say that everything’s bigger here, but when it comes to the waistlines in one in four of our largest cities, that’s nothing to brag about.

Food & Drink|
November 1, 2001

Tortilla Factories

In April 2001, Texas Monthly ran a feature on tortillas, including a list of local factories in selected cities in Texas where you can buy freshly prepared masa for making tortillas or tamales. Here is an updated list of the factories that were still open for business in November 2001.In

Food & Drink|
November 1, 2001

Shelf Help: The Best Store-Bought Brands

Watching tamales being mass produced is a bit like watching sausage being made: it takes the romance out of the process, to say the least. Once you’ve seen the two huge drums mixing the masa and tumbling the mechanically shredded meat—and the extruders ejecting one never-ending tamale from two concentric

Food & Drink|
May 31, 2000

The Meating

Three friends, seven years, untold pounds of barbecue pork chops and prime rib, and a single tradition that elevates the experience above mere food.

Food & Drink|
April 1, 2000

Hot Sauce

How the Stubb's barbecue empire outlasted the death of its namesake—and proved that spice guys sometimes finish first.

Food & Drink|
November 1, 1999

Joy of Mex: Dallas

CUQUITA’S2326 N. Henderson, 214-823-1859; cash only. Pozole (hominy stew) and lengua (tongue) make the menu more Mex-Mex, but there’s plenty of Tex-Mex at this fine place. The homemade lemonade is a nice little appetizer all by itself, and you’ll still feel like ordering simple and flavorful burritos (bean, chicken, and

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