Evan Daily wants to improve the environment; so when he opened Evan’s at 3939 Montrose in Houston the week of Earth Day 1990, he took steps beyond using recycled-paper menus and business cards. At Evan’s, organic produce and chemical-free meats are the basis of the meal, not just food for thought.

Chef Kathy Ruiz has developed a global cuisine, which also includes regional herbs and spices and sulfite-free wines, but she hasn’t neglected the familiar. Her deep-dish black-eyed pea pie—with layers of cornbread, peas, greens, and mashed potatoes—is a comfort-food recipe sure to bring good luck on New Year’s Day.

Recipe for Black-Eyed Pea Pie from Evan’s, Houston.