“I’m not crazy about chiles,” says chef Gerard Bahon, in a formidable French accent that has successfully resisted Americanization for more than twenty years. So at his Arlington restaurant, Bistro Bagatelle (406 W. Abrams), the native of Brittany eschews the potent ingredients of Texas’ Southwestern cuisine in favor of the serene and sophisticated French country cooking he grew up with. Bahon likes dishes as varied as snails in puff pastry with woodland mushrooms and stuffed mussels gratinèe with Pernod and garlic butter. This warm apple tart à la mode combines the sweet, sunny flavor of fresh apples with homemade cinnamon ice cream and a velvety, irresistible honey-cream sauce.

Try this recipe for Apple Tart With Cinnamon Ice Cream from Bistro Bagatelle, 406 W. Abrams, Arlington.