Some restaurants are so intertwined with the identity of a city that the place is unthinkable without them. London minus the Sherlock Holmes pub? Inconceivable. Paris sans La Tour d’Argent? C’est impossible. Houston without the Rivoli? No way. For seventeen years, the Rivoli (at 5636 Richmond), with its latticed garden room, has hosted the rites of passage of the upper crust: rehearsal dinners and birthdays, anniversaries and assignations. The well-bred menu never shocks with garish ingredients or outré combinations. Always correct, this suave acorn squash soup is rich yet refreshing, particularly if you chill it well before serving. Gloriously salty Roquefort toast provides the necessary counterpoint in texture and tone.

Try this recipe for Acorn Squash Soup with Roquefort Toast from The Rivoli, Houston.