Chef Hervé Glin is a big man. “I love to eat,” he says, wryly surveying his own bulk. He also likes to feed people, which he does at his clubby Cité Grill at 5860 Westheimer in Houston. His fondness for seafood and many of his culinary ideas come from his native Brittany, but his experience at restaurants in Washington, D.C., and the Napa Valley and at Houston’s La Colombe d’Or have given an American accent to his repertoire. In this recipe for sun-dried-tomato risotto, he adds a spunky Southwestern touch to an Italian classic. “You can use almost any fish instead of snapper, and you can substitute shrimp or crabmeat for the crayfish,” he says, “as long as they’re fresh.”

Try this recipe for Roasted Red Snapper on Risotto from Chef Hervé Glin, Cité Grill, Houston.