True grits—spiffed up with Gorgonzola and cream—bind this alliance between savory striped bass and sassy cranberry-mango chutney from Dallas’ Grape restaurant (2808 Greenville). The venerable establishment’s new chef, Jason Gorman, 26, has been there only four months, but he already has the city’s restaurant groupies abuzz. “The inspiration for this dish was the classic combination of cheese and nuts,” he says, referring to the heady Italian cheese and the black-walnut crust on the fish. “At first I was going to use mashed potatoes with the Gorgonzola, but they’re such a cliché these days. Then I tried mixing grits with the cheese, and the blend was perfect.”

Try this recipe for Walnut-Crusted Striped Bass from The Grape’s chef Jason Gorman.