The 50 Best BBQ Joints2021

The barbacado at LeRoy and Lewis Barbecue in Austin on September 25, 2021.
pitmaster Ali Clem at La Barbecue, in Austin, on August 13, 2021
Ribs at Interstellar BBQ in Austin on September 19, 2021.
Behind the counter at Cattleack Barbeque in Dallas on September 23, 2021.
Jalapeños on the grill at Desert Oak Barbecue in El Paso on September 10, 2021.
The dining room at Goldee's Barbecue in Fort Worth on September 24, 2021.
the banana cream pie at Burnt Bean Co., in Seguin, on August 12, 2021.
The smoker at Guess Family Barbecue in Waco on September 22, 2021.
A closeup of brisket at Mimsy's Craft Barbecue in Crockett on September 28, 2021.
The oak wood at Panther City BBQ in Fort Worth on September 25, 2021.
Pitmaster Clay Cowgill of Snow's BBQ in Lexington on August 14, 2021.
The line at Snow's BBQ in Lexington on August 14, 2021.
Customers grab bites from a tray of barbecue and sides at Truth Barbeque in Houston on September 26, 2021.

There's a new generation of Texas pitmasters in town, many of whom aren't satisfied with doing things the same old way. (Though fear not, staunch traditionalists: many are.)

Just a decade ago, Texans took our state’s basic barbecue meal for granted. It was the sacred trinity of brisket, pork spareribs, and sausage, served with potato salad, coleslaw, and beans on the side. The biggest decision diners had to make was whether they wanted ice cream with their peach cobbler. The lineup seemed as fixed as the brick barbecue pits in which the meats were smoked.

And it wasn’t just the menu that was unchanging. Places and personalities seemed perennial as well. Two of the many truths we held to be self-evident were these: Lockhart was the unchallenged capital of Texas barbecue, and Snow’s BBQ, in Lexington, and Franklin Barbecue, in Austin, were the best joints in the state. That pair of enormously admired institutions captured the number one and two spots on Texas Monthly’s 2013 and 2017 lists of the fifty best barbecue joints (Snow’s also ranked first in 2008, before Franklin opened). They epitomized old-school Texas barbecue at its finest. Aspiring and veteran pitmasters alike visited them as if they were shrines.

But in the past half decade or so, we’ve begun to notice that the winds of change are growing quite gusty. In cities and towns across the state, new joints have been opening, and young, ambitious pitmasters have been getting into the game. Because they’ve been inspired by Texas’s long and storied barbecue tradition, the Texas trinity still dominates, and brisket has only gotten more popular (and expensive). That said, the upstarts have lots of new ideas.

What distinguishes the Texas barbecue scene today? In a word: surprises. In another word: variety. We’re talking bacon burnt ends, beef cheeks, birria, blueberry-and-Gouda sausage, brisket-topped elote, and guava-glazed pork ribs. And those are just the meat offerings. Side dishes and desserts range as far afield as Big Red tres leches cake, blistered brussels sprouts, carrot soufflé, citrus-beet salad, and brisket fried rice. And we haven’t even gotten to the wine lists.

As you would expect at a time of transformation, compiling our Top 50 list was a challenge. Even we were shocked by some of the changes we felt compelled to make. The former lodestars in our firmament, Snow’s and Franklin, no longer occupy our first or second spots (though both made the top ten and are absolutely worth visiting). For the first time, sadly, no Lockhart joints made the list (though the venerated Kreuz Market does appear in our Honorable Mentions). But the flip side of those descents is that Texas barbecue boasts an exciting freshman class: 29 of the 50 entries are new to the list, including the rookie establishment that vaulted to our number one spot.

In short, if you were hoping for an argument that innovation is getting out of hand and it’s time to retrench and return to the simpler days of barbecue, you won’t find it here. But have no fear: if you’re an old-school stalwart who blanches at the thought of smoked cauliflower, plenty of places on our list will make you very happy.

Is Texas barbecue losing its soul, as some might fear? No. The staples aren’t going anywhere, and the rising generation of pitmasters prepares them as well as—and often better than—anyone ever has. The up-and-comers aren’t erasing anything; they’re adding to what we have and paying tribute to our culinary heritage by reinvigorating it.

Welcome to the brave new era of Texas barbecue. The best is yet to come.

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10
A tray of barbecue
Ernest Morales and Chris Magallanes at Panther City BBQ
The exterior of Panther City BBQ
A tray of barbecue; Ernest Morales and Chris Magallanes; the exterior.Photographs by Arturo Olmos
Fort Worth

Panther City BBQ

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10
Opened:
2018
Pitmaster:
Fernando Barnes, 43; Daniel Garcia, 28; Chris Magallanes, 47; Ernest Morales, 38; Angel Rodriguez, 19
Method:
Post oak; offset smoker and a Santa Maria grill
Pro Tip:
Sign up for a Panther City BBQU class, and your teachers will turn you into a backyard-barbecue hero.
Friends Chris Magallanes and Ernest Morales, who worked together in the audiovisual world, won an amateur barbecue competition and, fortunately for the rest of us, let it go to their heads. A few years ago, they quit their jobs and opened a food truck outside Republic Street Bar, in Fort Worth’s vibrant Near Southside neighborhood. Now the truck is gone in favor of a permanent space that includes a covered patio. Massive yet tender spareribs are glazed with sweet barbecue sauce, while the moist smoked turkey has a spicy kick. House-made sausages burst with juice, and the pork belly burnt ends, now a Cowtown barbecue staple, are sweet, sticky, fatty morsels that eat like meat candy. Even more over-the-top are the pork belly poppers: burnt ends stuffed inside jalapeño halves along with a bit of cream cheese, then wrapped in bacon. The sensation of biting through the crisp bacon into the meltingly tender cube of pork and fat beneath is pure heaven. But the showstopper is the brisket elote. Layers of creamed corn, chopped brisket, queso fresco, cilantro, and hot sauce are a full meal in a cup. Don’t miss the borracho beans or the collard greens, and although we’re die-hard banana pudding lovers, we prefer the Nutter Butter cheesecake pudding.
201 E. Hattie, Fort Worth; 682-499-5618; Sun & Wed 11–2, Thur–Sat 11–5
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Sausage links hang in the pit
A man named Joe from Wisconsin, who waited in line for his tray of Snow’s BBQ
Owner Kerry Bexley and pitmaster Tootsie Tomanetz in the pit room
Sausage links hang in the pit; a man named Joe from Wisconsin, who waited in line for his tray of Snow’s BBQ; owner Kerry Bexley and pitmaster Tootsie Tomanetz in the pit room.Photographs by Mackenzie Smith Kelley
Lexington

Snow’s BBQ

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9
Opened:
2003
Pitmaster:
Kerry Bexley, 54; Clay Cowgill, 39; Tootsie Tomanetz, 86
Method:
Post oak; offset smoker and direct-heat pit
Pro Tip:
Beer, Bloody Marys, and vodka sunrises are free, so bring cash for tips.
When it opened eighteen years ago, Snow’s was a secret known mainly to hardy locals who rose early on Saturdays to attend the weekly cattle auction in the Central Texas town of Lexington (population 1,200). Those peaceful days came to an abrupt halt in 2008, when this magazine ranked the tiny, rustic place number one on our Top 50 list. The renown that followed sparked 45-minute waits in line—just ask “Joe from Wisconsin”—and turned Snow’s expert pitmaster Tootsie Tomanetz into a barbecue celebrity. Her grandmotherly face drew national media coverage, and in 2013 and 2017, Snow’s made our top two again. But it wasn’t until 2020, when the Netflix series Chef ’s Table: BBQ aired a moving and beautifully shot tribute, that Snow’s fame truly went global. Now barbecue hounds hailing from Guatemala to Kenya sleep in lawn chairs under the property’s trees on Friday nights to be first in line the next morning. If they’re lucky, they might get to snap a picture with Tomanetz, skilled co-pitmaster Clay Cowgill, or affable owners Kerry and Kim Bexley. Those devotees are rewarded with smoked meats as good as any in the country, along with a traditional lineup of sides and banana pudding for dessert. So why, then, has Snow’s slipped a few spots down on our list? For the same reason Franklin has: as much as we love the place, the Texas barbecue game has changed profoundly. And that’s not a bad thing at all.
516 Main, Lexington; 979-773-4640; Sat 8–sold out
8
A tray of barbecue at Evie Mae’s Pit Barbeque
Arnis Robbins at Evie Mae’s Pit Barbeque
Brisket at Evie Mae’s Pit Barbeque
A tray of barbecue; Arnis Robbins; preparing brisket.Photographs by Jeff Wilson
Wolfforth

Evie Mae’s Pit Barbeque

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8
Opened:
2015
Pitmaster:
Emma Mendoza, 29; Nathan Pier, 40; Arnis Robbins, 37; Joseph Rodriguez, 28
Method:
Oak; reverse-flow and wood-fired rotisserie smokers
Pro Tip:
Evie Mae’s serves a more limited menu with longer hours at its new outpost in a Lubbock United Supermarkets location.
Before they turned their attention to the culinary arts, Arnis and Mallory Robbins ran a landscaping company in Arizona. They went from cutting grass to cutting some of the best meat in the state when their food truck opened outside Lubbock six years ago. Evie Mae’s moved into an actual building a year later and is now the crown jewel of West Texas barbecue. Don’t be intimidated by the long line—it moves fast. Instead, grab a free beer from the cooler and peruse the desserts on display. Strawberry cake, Texas sheet cake, and no fewer than two versions of pecan pie are available most days. Beef ribs sell out quickly, but you’ll be just as satisfied with the fatty brisket, especially the decadent burnt ends. Saucy pork ribs have gotten trendy, so we appreciate the more subtle seasoning on these perfectly smoked St. Louis–cut ribs. The same could be said of the German smoked sausage. Yes, there’s a spicy, cheesy version too, but the original is bursting with flavor and has the perfect snap, no gimmicks needed. For sides, fresh green beans and green-chile cheese grits are hard to beat, though you shouldn’t ignore the cornbread. For a change of pace, look for the occasional smoked prime rib dinners (so popular you’ll need a reservation). And if you’re in the market for a massive new smoker, Arnis will weld one for you in his shop next door.
217 U.S. 62, Wolfforth; 806-782-2281; Wed–Sat 11–sold out
7
A tray of meats at Franklin Barbecue
Pitmaster Aaron Franklin at Franklin Barbecue
Pulled pork at Franklin Barbecue
A tray of meats; pitmaster Aaron Franklin; pulled pork.Photographs by Mackenzie Smith Kelley
Austin

Franklin Barbecue

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7
Opened:
2009
Pitmaster:
Jordan Jackson, 39; Megan Nesland, 38; Matthew Van Orden, 46
Method:
Post oak; offset smoker
Pro Tip:
Because of the pandemic, the dining room has been closed, though it’s due to reopen soon. For now, preorder online (days or even weeks ahead is recommended), drive up at your designated time, check in, and park. The wait is thirty minutes max.
The ebony-hued bark on the fatty brisket is heavy with pepper and beyond caramelized. The glossy pork ribs are a thing of beauty. The sweet, pink pulled pork could star in a holiday picnic. As for the homemade sides—classic potato salad, slaw, and pinto beans—tradition rules. Same with desserts (individual pies such as pecan and key lime), baked by a local purveyor. After twelve years in business, Franklin Barbecue still has the magic, thanks to fanatical smoke master Aaron Franklin, who doesn’t really cook much anymore but supervises all smoking operations. The charismatic native Texan made his mark on the Austin scene in 2009, achieving rock-star status and inspiring young, urban would-be pitmasters statewide. So popular was his little joint that three-hour waits in line were routine. In 2013 and 2017, it captured the number one and number two spots, respectively, on our Top 50 list. But even as the Franklin phenomenon continued unabated—he wrote two cookbooks, won a James Beard Award, and helped start an Austin food and music festival—the newcomers were busy introducing novel dishes, drawing inspiration from far afield, and becoming agents of change themselves. Franklin’s drop into the bottom half of our top ten isn’t a sign that the beloved establishment has diminished—no one does the traditional barbecue lineup better. But it is a sign that the new wave is reshaping the scene in ways we couldn’t have imagined a few short years ago.
900 E. 11th, Austin; 512-653-1187; Order online (minimum 3 pounds) and pick up Tue–Sun 10:30–2
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6
A tray of barbecue and sides at Cattleack Barbeque
A slice of crack cake at Cattleack Barbeque
The smoker at Cattleack Barbeque
A tray of barbecue and sides; a slice of crack cake; the smoker.Photographs by Brittany Conerly
Dallas

Cattleack Barbeque

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6
Opened:
2013
Pitmaster:
Todd David, 64
Method:
Post oak; offset and wood-fired rotisserie smokers and direct-heat pit
Pro Tip:
David hosts a Pits & Punch fireside chat at 9 a.m. on the first Saturday of the month, where he fields questions about all things barbecue.
Cattleack owners Todd and Misty David clearly respect barbecue tradition: they covered an outside wall with murals of modern pioneers such as Aaron Franklin, Wayne Mueller, and Tootsie Tomanetz. But the Davids are making their own way in the meat world, cooking dishes such as beef bologna, spicy beef boudin, and Wagyu pastrami ribs, which are so big that the bright red meat seems to wave from the bone like a flag. The specials go fast, so get here early if you want anything beyond the standard menu (which, for the record, is hardly a consolation prize). The many varieties of house-made sausages are impeccably crafted, as is the Wagyu brisket, which exhibits the perfect balance of smoke, seasoning, and beefy flavor. The pulled pork is sui generis for Texas because the Davids bought a North Carolina whole hog cooker; the result is tangy, moist, and richer than meat taken just from the shoulder. It’s available daily, and each serving is topped with cracklins. The large dining room, with its friendly vibe and many photos of loyal customers, exudes confidence and conviviality.
13628 Gamma Rd, Dallas; 972-805-0999; Thur & Fri 10:30–2, first Sat of the month 10:30–2
5
A tray of barbecue at LeRoy and Lewis
Evan LeRoy adds kindling to the smoker at LeRoy and Lewis
The L&L burger at LeRoy and Lewis
A tray of barbecue; Evan LeRoy adds kindling to the smoker; the L&L burger.Photographs by Mackenzie Smith Kelley
Austin

LeRoy and Lewis Barbecue

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5
Opened:
2017
Pitmaster:
Evan LeRoy, 35
Method:
Post oak; offset smoker and direct-heat pit
Pro Tip:
Spend $14 on the L&L Burger, which is made with ground Akaushi brisket scraps.
A pretty, tree-shaded gravel courtyard that’s home to a coffee shop filled with Austinites on laptops is the improbable location of a food truck serving up some of the best ’cue in the state. The joint’s ethos is aptly summed up in its slogan: “New School BBQ, Old School Service.” At LeRoy and Lewis, the new-school approach means Evan LeRoy eschews pork ribs (though on Saturdays he does offer “bacon ribs”—massive pork ribs with the belly still attached) and turkey (except around Thanksgiving) and serves brisket only on Saturdays and Sundays. (Said brisket is Akaushi, by the way, and a good reason for a weekend visit.) The regular offerings are excellent, though, two of the best being glistening, succulent smoked barbacoa and luxurious sliced beef cheeks. There’s also pulled whole hog and salty whole hog sausage with a handmade, country look. Also on tap: unusual sides such as sassy kimchi, vinegary braised cabbage and sausage, and terrific pork hash (a.k.a. rice with a meaty gravy). If you don’t have room after all that, know that the cheddar cheesecake with a dab of apple butter is worth a return visit. Serious backyard cooks can sign up online for a weekend at “New School BBQ University” ($1,500, though there’s also a more affordable option of online videos), where they’ll learn techniques such as the foil-boat wrap method, which produces a magnificently crunchy crust on the brisket. Many of the classes take place at Cosmic Coffee + Beer Garden, where the truck has been parked since it opened, four years ago.
121 Pickle Rd, Austin; 512-945-9882; Wed–Sun 11–9
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bbq top 50 list burnt bean co
bbq top 50 list burnt bean co
bbq top 50 list burnt bean co
Meats, sides, and the Big Red tres leches; the line out the door; the banana cream pie.Photographs by Mackenzie Smith Kelley
Seguin

Burnt Bean Co.

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4
Opened:
2020
Pitmaster:
David Kirkland, 47; Ernest Servantes, 43
Method:
Post oak; offset smoker
Pro Tip:
Visit on Sunday mornings, when you can order tacos, barbacoa, menudo, and—drumroll, please—brisket huevos rancheros.
We were standing well back in line for a late lunch at Burnt Bean when one of the owners stepped outside to deliver bad news: “Folks, I’m afraid we’re going to run out of brisket in about ten people.” His warning proved correct. We thanked him for his courtesy and vowed to return, considerably earlier, the next day. That’s typical of the thoughtful service you get at this sterling addition to the Central Texas barbecue pantheon. The attractively remodeled commercial building, with bare brick walls and sky-high ceilings, is the perfect place to savor brisket with an impressively thick crust covering a thin layer of translucent fat. The pork ribs are beauts too, with great texture and just a hint of sweetness. Listen as you bite into the coarse-ground sausage: you’ll hear a satisfying snap. Barbecue fans who walk on the mild side will be grateful for the exceptional smoked turkey breast, and big groups will be thrilled with the variety of sides, including the gently seasoned cowboy beans (soupy in the good old-fashioned way) and the excellent street corn pudding. At the end of the long, efficiently run counter, you’ll find an array of Instagrammable desserts. If you must choose between the Big Red tres leches cake and the chocolate cake with fudgy icing, go with the second (though it’s not available every day). And check the chalkboard for daily features, such as the huge, gloriously fatty pork steak we had one Thursday.
108 S. Austin, Seguin; 830-609-7189; Thur–Sat 11–3, Sun 8–3
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3
bbq top 50 list truth houston
bbq top 50 list truth houston
bbq top 50 list truth houston
A customer plucks a rib from their tray; pitmaster Leonard Botello IV; Botello and an employee prep the whole hog.Photographs by Arturo Olmos
Houston

Truth Barbeque

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3
Opened:
2015
Pitmaster:
Searcy Booker Jr., 27; Leonard Botello IV, 32; Antioco Carino, 34; Reid Carson, 30; Edward Montoya, 35
Method:
Post oak; offset smoker and direct-heat pit
Pro Tip:
Windows into the pit room provide entertainment while you’re in line.
The Heights neighborhood, in Houston, is packed with outstanding barbecue joints, but Truth (which opened its first outlet in Brenham in 2015) is transcendent. It starts with a homey atmosphere and staff who are both knowledgeable and helpful—no rushing customers through the long line here. The combination of both unconventional and classic sides makes it hard to choose (or not) between corn pudding and creamed spinach or potato salad and pinto beans. Swoon-worthy cakes are made by head pitmaster Leonard Botello’s mom, Janel, and head baker Laquita Wilkins. The three layers of the intense chocolate cake are best separated before eating, lest you devour the entire massive slice in one sitting. A selection of sauces adorns each table, from a spicy red to a vinegary mustard that pops like a hangover remedy. But we digress from the meat. Smoked by Botello and his crew, the ribs have a beet-red, satiny exterior, the perfect counterpoint to the sweet, succulent interior, which can definitely go sauce-free. Ditto the brisket, with its deep, peppery crust and just the right measure of glossy fat to bring out the best in the lush, smoky beef. Botello’s niche specialties are bold as well. Chunks of smoked brisket are stuffed into the Cajun-inspired burnt-end boudin (limited availability daily) and served with house-made hot sauce. Saturdays are for whole hog barbecue, prepared in a cooker dedicated to the job and as good as some of the Carolina versions Truth was inspired by. Get there before eleven to beat the worst of the line; visitors arriving after two will likely be disappointed.
110 S. Heights Blvd, Houston; 832-835-0001; Tue–Sun 11–4
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bbq to 50 list interstellar
bbq to 50 list interstellar
bbq to 50 list interstellar
The order counter; pitmaster John Bates; the sliced brisket.Photographs by Jeff Wilson
Austin

InterStellar BBQ

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2
Opened:
2019
Pitmaster:
John Bates, 46; Carlos Cruz, 43; Warren McDonald, 53
Method:
Post oak; offset smoker
Pro Tip:
Wednesday is Riblets Day, when Bates pairs bite-size chunks from a pork-rib rack with a sauce dreamed up that morning to match his mood.
The word “ambitious” is seldom a compliment to a creative endeavor, usually describing a swing and a miss. But not for the aptly named InterStellar BBQ. Pit boss John Bates acquired a fine-dining pedigree at Austin institutions Wink and Asti, and he brings that experience and, yes, ambition to bear in everything he offers, which is why InterStellar has quickly risen to destination status. The tidy, agreeable joint is located in a massive strip mall, so just circle the parking lot until you see the two smokers. The larger one is where Bates cooks his most popular meats. The secret to his brisket is simple: salt, pepper, garlic, and obsessive heat management. For his pork ribs, he eschews the usual glaze but, knowing diners expect a little sweetness, adds brown sugar to the rub. He also smokes what he calls the Tipsy Turkey Breast, which marinates overnight in hefeweizen. The smaller smoker is reserved for experiments such as pork belly doused with a peach-tea glaze and an onion stuffed with chopped brisket, a hat tip to Bates’s dad, who threw an onion on the campfire every time he cooked outdoors. As for sides, the usual trio is rounded out with striking additions such as a tomato-and-zucchini salad and scalloped potatoes with a toasted-Parmesan crust. Our nominee for must-try dessert? The Mexican-hot-chocolate rice pudding.
12233 RR 620 N., Austin; 512-382-6248; Wed–Sun 11–5
1
bbq to 50 list goldee’s
bbq to 50 list goldee’s
bbq to 50 list goldee’s
Pitmasters Lane Milne, Jalen Heard, Nupohn Inthanousay, Jonny White, and PJ Inthanousay; ribs in the pit; a tray of meats and sides.Photographs by Arturo Olmos
Fort Worth

Goldee’s Barbecue

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1
Opened:
2020
Pitmaster:
Lane Milne, 27; Jalen Heard, 27; Nupohn Inthanousay, 26; Jonny White, 26; PJ Inthanousay, 23
Method:
Post oak; offset smoker
Pro Tip:
Dick Price Road may look like a sleepy country lane, but you’d be wise to pay attention to those 35-mph signs.
Last year a few young pitmasters joined forces to take an abandoned building on the southeast side of Fort Worth and create their ideal of a modern barbecue joint. Though they lacked the decades of experience typical of many top-flight cooks, this band of barbecue wunderkinder had worked at some of the best joints in Texas (Franklin, La Barbecue, Micklethwait, Valentina’s). But just after opening, in February 2020, the dining room was forced to shut down because of the coronavirus pandemic. Goldee’s barely hung on as a take-out operation until this April, when it fully reopened. (When we recently joked to Jonny White that they should be selling more than fifteen briskets a day—compared with the hundred or so at Franklin—he replied, “It’s better than the four a day we were selling last May.”) So, what shot this modest joint into our top spot? Simply put, food that’s close to perfection. During repeated visits, we searched for weaknesses and inconsistencies, only to find, again and again, the state’s best spareribs and spectacular sausage and brisket. While many places have come to rely on the common crutches of excess—too much salt on the brisket, too much sugar on the ribs—Goldee’s demonstrates a confident restraint that belies the pitmasters’ youth. They trust the meat and the smoke more than an arsenal of seasonings. That attention doesn’t waver when it comes to sides, especially the peppery cheese grits and the mustard-heavy pork hash. And then there are culinary surprises such as Nupohn Inthanousay’s Laotian sausage: take a chunk, mash it into a bit of sticky rice, and dunk the combo into the spicy-sour jeow som sauce. Your eyes will open wide as you gaze at the new horizons of Texas barbecue.
4645 Dick Price Rd, Fort Worth; 817-480-4131; Fri–Sun 11–sold out
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Arlington

Hurtado Barbecue

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Opened:
2020
Pitmaster:
Brandon Hurtado, 34; Chris Leffel, 36; Michael Sharp, 32; Andrew Zelade, 30 
Method:
Post oak; offset and wood-fired rotisserie smokers
Pro Tip:
Don’t miss the Texas Twinkie, a brisket-and-pimento-cheese-stuffed jalapeño wrapped in bacon.
The menu at this joint that serves “Central Texas–style barbecue with a Tex-Mex twist” includes such unusual fare as pork belly burnt ends and quail. If you can’t make up your mind, order the El Jefe Platter, a sampling of six meats that includes tender brisket, sweetly glazed pork ribs, and very juicy turkey. If you’re feeling more adventurous, the Big Red barbacoa tostada delivers smoked beef cheeks braised in the Waco-born soft drink and topped with beef-tallow refried beans, salsa verde, Valentina hot sauce, cotija cheese, cilantro, and raw white onions. The desserts rotate; if you get a chance, try the Mexican bread pudding garnished with pork belly burnt ends. Plan for a nap.
205 E. Front, Arlington; 682-323-5141; Wed–Sun 11–5 or sold out; hurtadobbq.com
Austin

Distant Relatives

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Opened:
2021
Pitmaster:
Damien Brockway, 38; Omari Mackey, 27; Wesley Robinson, 28
Method:
Pecan; offset smoker
Pro Tip:
If you’re a fan of subtle heat, grab some spicy smoked peanuts as a snack.
The Distant Relatives truck is located in the lot by Meanwhile Brewing Company, in South Austin, and diners can take advantage of the brewery’s expansive outdoor seating (and excellent beer). When owner and pitmaster Damien Brockway first opened his truck, in late February, brisket wasn’t on the menu (he preferred beef chuck). But that’s changed. Distant Relatives now serves up flavorful brisket with smoked-mustard butter, as well as pork spareribs and pulled pork. The “modern African American” menu is Brockway’s interpretation of dishes from various African American cuisines, such as black-eyed peas, which originated in West Africa and are a part of New Year’s traditions in the South. In this hearty version, the beans are cooked with burnt ends. A standout item is the juicy, well-seasoned chicken leg quarters. Small but impressive upgrades—such as toasted slices of Pullman sourdough instead of generic white bread—seal the deal.
3901 Promontory Point Dr, Austin; 512-717-2504; Wed–Sun noon–8 or sold out; distatantrelativesatx.com
bbq top 50 list La Barbecue
bbq top 50 list La Barbecue
bbq top 50 list La Barbecue
La Barbecue, in Austin; pitmaster Ali Clem; the line outside.Photographs by Mackenzie Smith Kelley
Austin

La Barbecue

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Opened:
2012
Pitmaster:
Ali Clem, 40; LeAnn Mueller, 49
Method:
Post oak; offset smoker
Pro Tip:
If you’re in the mood for smoked craft hot dogs, try Mueller and Clem’s Red Rocket Wiener Wagon pop-up.
After almost a decade of hopping around East Austin in various food trucks (and sharing a space with a high-end convenience store), La Barbecue has found a permanent home. The new digs are covered in artwork that ranges from the sentimental, like the painting of LeAnn’s mother, Trish (she helped run Louie Mueller Barbecue, in Taylor, with LeAnn’s father, the late Bobby Mueller), to the eclectic, like a T. rex snacking on anthropomorphic sausages. If, like that dinosaur, you crave sausage, you’ll want to try the original, jalapeño, and chipotle versions. They go great with the spicy dill pickles, and it’s hard to beat the flavor combination of a La Barbecue brisket burnt end and a forkful of the sweet-pepper-and-cucumber kimchi. As for pure comfort food, don’t miss the classic shells and cheese or the Japanese-inspired sausage-and-brisket chili.
2401 E. Cesar Chavez, Austin; 512-605-9696; Wed–Sun 11–6; labarbecue.com
Austin

Micklethwait Craft Meats

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Opened:
2012
Pitmaster:
Ren Garcia, 47; Tom Micklethwait, 43 
Method:
Oak; offset smoker
Pro Tip:
Order the Frito pie, which comes generously topped with smoked brisket.
The cheerful yellow Micklethwait food truck boasts a prime location with a covered seating area in East Austin, just off I-35, where it serves up tasty pork ribs, snappy Tex-Czech sausage, a juicy half chicken, and moist brisket with an impeccable crust. True to its name, the quaint truck gets crafty and has been known to dabble in other meats, such as the delicious pulled lamb. The hulking beef rib will run you $35 a pound. Don’t overlook the scratch-made sides, such as the refreshing lemon poppy slaw and the citrus-beet salad.
1309 Rosewood Ave, Austin; 512-791-5961; Thur–Sun 11–sold out; craftmeatsaustin.com
Austin

Valentina’s Tex Mex BBQ

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Opened:
2013
Pitmaster:
Miguel Vidal, 40 
Method:
Mesquite; offset smoker
Pro Tip:
The smoked burger Thursday special is no longer available, but if you’re one of the many who crave it, head to Vidal’s new truck, Cash Cow Burgers, located down the road.
This beloved South Austin joint’s smoked meats are reliably tender and tasty, the handmade tortillas divine. And don’t get us started on the fresh salsas or the Real Deal Holyfield breakfast taco, a miracle of refried beans, fried egg, bacon, potatoes, and a slice of brisket. But any regular will tell you that the truck’s long outdoor waits can be brutal. Luckily, those will soon be a thing of the past, thanks to a forthcoming indoor location. At a date yet to be announced, pitmaster Vidal and his team are moving into a spacious brick-and-mortar spot in Buda’s charming historic downtown, just fifteen or so minutes away. Don’t worry, Central and North Austinites leery of a long drive: y’all can enjoy the brisket tacos and pulled pork sandwiches at Valentina’s outpost at Q2 Stadium, home of Austin’s new professional soccer team. 
11500 Menchaca Rd, Austin; 512-221-4248; Wed–Sun 7:30–6 or sold out; valentinastexmexbbq.com
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Beaumont

1701 Barbecue

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Opened:
2020
Pitmaster:
Blue Broussard, 37; Travis Cox, 38; Jacob Golmon, 37; Derek Ray, 35; Colton Savoie, 19; Gage Stark, 18
Method:
Post oak; offset smoker
Pro Tip:
Come early—this joint often sells out well before 2 p.m.
The neon sign in the dining room may say “Local,” but 1701 Barbecue is more like an embassy for Central Texas in Beaumont, thanks to offerings such as juicy, snappy, coarse-ground sausage and freshly made peach cobbler. Though any visitor to Beaumont should sample the region’s meaty specialties, such as beef links and smoked boudin, 1701 offers the best brisket and pork ribs in southeast Texas. The juicy brisket sports a thick crust, and the pork ribs are just sweet enough. The turkey isn’t to be missed either. A sweet-jalapeño-relish potato salad and a cilantro slaw help break up the meaty meal. If you’re stuck in a long line, grab a Shiner and enjoy the company.
1701 Calder Ave, Beaumont; Tue–Sat 11–2 or sold out; 1701barbecue.com
Bellaire

Blood Bros. BBQ

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Opened:
2018
Pitmaster:
Quy Hoang, 48; Jaime Valencia, 37
Method:
Oak and pecan; offset smoker
Pro Tip:
A new menu is posted every day on this joint’s social media accounts.
Many of Houston’s best eateries are tucked inside strip malls, and Blood Bros. is a great example. Owners Quy Hoang and Terry and Robin Wong, who grew up together in Alief, first cut their teeth at pop-ups around town; their brick-and-mortar location has become a bustling hub for inventive barbecue that reflects Houston’s diversity, drawing on Mediterranean, Asian, and Caribbean influences, among others. The menu varies day to day (though sausage, turkey, brisket, and ribs are always available), but you’ll be satisfied no matter what they have. To wit: the Wednesday we ventured over, we opted for the phenomenal char siu banh mi, smoky Gouda mac and cheese, a piquant jalapeño coleslaw, and the knockout brisket fried rice. Even after calling it a day, we’d already started dreaming of coming back to try the guava-glazed ribs or smoked brisket loco moco, a Hawaiian staple consisting of a brisket burger patty, a fried egg, and gravy made from smoked brisket trimmings on a mountain of white rice.
5425 Bellaire Blvd, Bellaire; 713-664-7776; Wed–Sun 11–3 or sold out (dinner is available Thursdays); bloodbrosbbq.com
Belton

Miller’s Smokehouse

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Opened:
2008
Pitmaster:
Bradley Knight, 33; Dirk Miller, 57; Dylon Miller, 30; Chris Oliver, 22
Method:
Post oak; offset smoker
Pro Tip:
Breakfast tacos and sandwiches are served each morning from 7:30 to 10:55. Try them with the excellent coffee, available all day long.
Miller’s Smokehouse sits right at the crossroads of old-school and new-school Texas barbecue. The restaurant—a sleekly renovated building—looks at first like just another iteration of trendy food-concept design, with its concrete floors and exposed ductwork. But Miller’s represents decades of slow growth. Its first briskets, in true Central Texas style, were cooked in a small smoker in the alley beside the family’s taxidermy shop, and the pies still come mostly from family recipes baked by the matriarch, “Momma” Miller, and her team. The meat, however, is the true testament to old-school barbecue cred. There are a handful of departures from the Texas trinity, but the brisket is the star, with a nice black crust that gives way to fat that’s been rendered almost to butter.
300 E. Central Ave, Belton; 254-939-5500; Sun–Wed 7:30–3, Thur–Sat 7:30–8; millerssmokehouse.com
Brenham

LJ’s BBQ

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Opened:
2015
Pitmaster:
Corey Cook, 46; Matt Lowery, 40
Method:
Post oak; offset smoker
Pro Tip:
On Fridays and Saturdays, don’t miss the free, locally brewed beer in the cooler just past the checkout.
As we waited in a line that was nearly out the door, we found ourselves envying the locals who knew to get to LJ’s right when it opened. By the time we made it to the counter, Matt Lowery himself was slicing brisket at a rapid pace (he’d already sold out of ribs). We walked to the table with a plate of meats and a side we were particularly excited about: the brisket mac and cheese. Buttery in texture and color, with a truly cheesy flavor, the mac could have stood alone. But with a generous serving of chopped brisket atop it? We would have been happy with that as our whole meal. The sliced brisket was also a dream, boasting a beautiful smoke ring, well-peppered bark, and melty fat. The sausage was juicy, with a casing that snapped immediately and then gave way to the sweet and salty flavor of its dense interior. The turkey delighted too, packing a bit of peppery punch. And the house-made barbecue sauce was distinctive: a little sweet, undeniably tangy, and more smoky than peppery. We took one lick of the brownish-red dollop we’d squirted onto our plates and decided we could drink it.
1407 W. Main, Brenham; 979-421-8292; Wed–Sat 11–3 or sold out; ljstxbbq.com
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Photograph Chelsea Kyle; styling by Drew Aichele
Vera’s Backyard Bar-B-Que, in Brownsville.Photograph by Jenn Duncan
Brownsville

Vera’s Backyard Bar-B-Que

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Opened:
1955
Pitmaster:
Armando “Mando” Vera, 61
Method:
Mesquite; underground brick-lined pit
Pro Tip:
Most patrons take their food to go, but we’d advise dining in and chatting with Mando.
Signs on the walls of Vera’s extol the merits of apples, burgers, and cookies, which to our mind is akin to an Alamo gift shop lining its walls with decor celebrating the Empire State Building. If you’ve come to this joint, the last in the state allowed to cook its meat in an underground pit, you surely aren’t there for standard Middle American fare. The brisket may not be top-notch, but it’s worth trying when wrapped in a tortilla and topped with salsa verde, and the carnitas are tender and satiating. The real draw, though, is the barbacoa de cabeza; Vera’s serves every part of the cow’s head. Even the least adventurous will enjoy the cheek (cachete), and the more adventurous can try tongue (lengua) and eyes (ojos). How do you like them apples?
2404 Southmost Blvd, Brownsville; 956-546-4159; Fri 6–2, Sat & Sun 5–2:30
bbq to 50 list mimsy’s
bbq to 50 list mimsy’s
bbq to 50 list mimsy’s
A tray of meats at Mimsy’s, in Crockett; owners Wade and Kathy Elkins; smoked-queso mac and cheese.Photographs by Arturo Olmos
Crockett

Mimsy’s Craft Barbecue

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Opened:
2020
Pitmaster:
Wade Elkins, 36
Method:
Post oak; reverse-flow smoker 
Pro Tip:
If you’re in a hurry, grab a wrap, which features sausage swaddled in brisket-fat tortillas.
Wade and Kathy Elkins were high school sweethearts in the town of Magnolia, north of Houston. After moving to the Bayou City, Kathy, a classically trained chef, worked at various restaurants while Wade, a self-taught pitmaster, began to do barbecue pop-ups. When a family-owned building came up for sale in Crockett, they decamped for a return to small-town life and opened Mimsy’s, named after Wade’s great-grandmother. His Central Texas–style smoked meats and links (such as boudin made with brisket) are the perfect partner for Kathy’s elevated sides (mac and cheese made with smoked queso and poblanos) and specials (shrimp and grits), all of which are enriched by the rustic atmosphere of a former ice-making warehouse.
1979 S. 5th, Crockett; 936-544-7000; Tue & Wed 11–3, Thur–Sat 11–8; mimsyscraftbbq.com
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The exterior of Slow Bone, in Dallas.Photograph by Brittany Conerly
Dallas

Slow Bone

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Opened:
2013
Pitmaster:
Jeffery Hobbs, 51
Method:
Hickory and oak; wood-fired rotisserie smoker
Pro Tip:
Yes, this is a barbecue list, but Slow Bone also serves the best fried chicken we’ve found in town.
During a recent weekday lunch visit, we joined the many dude duos who had crowded the parking lot with their vehicles. “You spend your whole life trying to figure your wife out,” we heard one man say to another; others were eating in reverent silence. In line, we’d asked pitmaster Jeffery Hobbs what the specialty was. “Well, we’re kinda known for all of it,” he said. We thought it was a standard marketing line from a proud meat dad until we tried all of it. The sausage and turkey were heavily smoky; neither needed the sauce, which was deep red and not too sweet, but they were both perfect vessels for it. The pork ribs were rich and peppery, and the meat clung to the bone in just the right fashion. As for the brisket, we ordered from the fatty side and were surprised by how well the crust hung onto the meat in spite of the layer of fat between the two. Upon our first bite, we let out a vulgar little moan. 
2234 Irving Blvd, Dallas; 214-377-7727; Daily, 11–2:30; slowbone.com
bbq top 50 list smokey joe’s
bbq top 50 list smokey joe’s
Smokey Joe’s BBQ, in Dallas; pitmasters Kris Manning and Earl Harris.Photographs by Brittany Conerly
Dallas

Smokey Joe’s BBQ

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Opened:
1985
Pitmaster:
Earl Harris, 56; Kris Manning, 31 
Method:
Hickory and oak (brisket only); offset smoker
Pro Tip:
Smokey Joe’s has hopped on the bandwagon for barbecue tacos, though they’re available only on Tuesdays.
Since Joe Melton and Kenneth Manning opened Smokey Joe’s in the mid-eighties and later passed it on to Manning’s son Kris, the joint has smartly adapted to the evolution of Texas barbecue. Its original brick pit has been replaced with offset smokers that put out lean brisket covered by swooshes of fat cap. The pork ribs shimmer and offer a touch of sweetness. Even better is the Maxi, a sandwich with sliced sausage and chopped brisket, whose rough, inky-black bark is nicely juxtaposed with a pink-hued smoke ring. The meat is then topped with thick pickle disks and served in a soft, buttery bun. Finish with a slice of the luscious, scratch-made sweet potato pie. 
6403 S. R. L. Thornton Fwy, Dallas; 214-371-8081; Tue–Thur 11–8:30, Fri & Sat 11–9:30, Sun 11–5; smokeyjoesbbqdallas.com
Dallas

Terry Black’s Barbecue

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Opened:
2019
Pitmaster:
Mark Black, 33; Michael Black, 33 
Method:
Post oak; offset and wood-fired rotisserie smokers
Pro Tip:
They won’t reveal how it’s dyed, but the black margarita is more than a gimmick.
As at the flagship Terry Black’s, in Austin, the scores of people taking photos of themselves set off our tourist-trap alarm bells. But our concern was misplaced: this is first-rate barbecue. We carefully carried our grease-soaked bundle of butcher paper to our table outside, as if it were a little meat baby, then tore into it with animal vigor. We’d visited multiple joints already that day, but we finished nearly everything. The brisket was covered in so much pepper it was almost spicy, but not so much that it distracted from the smokiness of the meat. Even the turkey, the pitfall of many a pitmaster, was a win: the exterior was crispy, but the meat’s moistness wasn’t compromised at all.
3025 Main, Dallas; 469-399-0081; Mon–Thur 11–9, Fri & Sat 10:30–9:30, Sun 10:30–9; terryblacksbbq.com
Ribs and chicken in the smoker at Desert Oak Barbecue, in El Paso.Photograph by Wyatt McSpadden
El Paso

Desert Oak Barbecue

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Opened:
2015
Pitmaster:
Richard Funk, 45
Method:
Post oak; offset smoker
Pro Tip:
Add some tangy chiles toreados, which are grilled over oak coals, to your meal.
Desert Oak’s plastic utensils hint at how tender the meat is. Even though we wandered into the diminutive joint shortly before closing time and bought the last bit of the day’s brisket, the meat was still pliable and savory. But we were especially surprised by the sublime smoked sausage, the soft threads of pulled pork accompanied by a vinegary Carolina sauce, and the El Paso Stuffed Potato, slathered in butter, cheese, and sour cream and bountifully topped with beans, chives, chiles toreados, and brisket. The sides held their own too: we’d eat the green-chile cheese rice every day, as well as the mustard-forward potato salad. We felt a little guilty when a regular came in hoping for brisket, but he seemed perfectly happy with sausage instead. 
1320 N. Zaragoza Rd, El Paso; 915-309-4322; Sun–Thur 11–7, Fri & Sat 11–9; desertoakbarbecue.com
Fort Worth

Dayne’s Craft Barbecue

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Opened:
2019
Pitmaster:
Thomas Loven, 26; Dayne Weaver, 34 
Method:
Red oak and post oak; offset smoker
Pro Tip:
If you go on a Sunday, check out the specialty burgers, such as the jalapeño-Havarti.
Not long ago, husband-and-wife duo Dayne and Ashley Weaver were selling barbecue out of their backyard. Then they progressed to the pop-up scene and, finally, to a home at Lola’s Trailer Park, in Fort Worth’s Cultural District. The crew plates some of the most attractive spreads in the state: a platter of artfully arranged black-bark brisket, red-hued ribs, silky white pork belly, house-made pickles, street corn, and pink pickled onions would tempt even the Instagram-averse to take a photo. Weaver’s sausage program is one of the more creative ones in the state, as evidenced by his blueberry-and-Gouda version. Adding some of the bacon brisket (pork belly cooked like brisket) is a nice way to round out your meal, which you should enjoy on the covered patio with a drink from Lola’s Saloon.
2735 W. 5th, Fort Worth; 682-472-0181; Fri–Sun 11–4; daynescraftbarbecue.com
Fort Worth

Smoke-A-Holics BBQ

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Opened:
2019
Pitmaster:
Derrick Walker, 44
Method:
Pecan; offset smoker
Pro Tip:
As of publication, the menu is to-go only. Order ahead to avoid the wait.
Derrick Walker started doing pop-ups before it was cool, back in 2005 or so. Armed with a culinary degree and a competition pedigree, he finally landed a permanent spot near Hillside Park two years ago with the help of his wife, Kesha. The usual suspects are on the self-described “Tex-Soul” menu, among them moist brisket with a peppery bark and tender pork ribs. But skipping the juicy turkey and chicken would be a mistake, and the fatty, crispy rib tips are a must. If you need some veggies in your life, we recommend the spicy collard greens. Wrap up your order with the banana pudding or Coca-Cola cake.
1417 Evans Ave, Fort Worth; 817-386-5658; Tue–Sat 11–sold out (Tuesdays are for turkey legs only); smoke-a-holicsbbq.com
Fredericksburg

Eaker Barbecue

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Opened:
2018
Pitmaster:
Lance Eaker, 49
Method:
Mesquite and a bit of post oak; offset smoker
Pro Tip:
It’s pronounced “Acre.” 
Wedding-venue shoppers and wine enthusiasts can now add smoked meat to the list of reasons to visit the Burg. After three years of cooking ’cue out of a food truck near Houston, Lance Eaker and his wife, Boo, took off for the Hill Country in June and opened this brick-and-mortar. While the traditional meats and sides are solid, it’s Seoul-born Boo’s South Korean influence that sets Eaker apart. The spicy gochujang pork ribs are marinated, smoked, and then flame-blasted with a butane torch right before being served with a topping of green onions and toasted sesame seeds. And it turns out that the house-made kimchi rivals Topo Chico as the perfect fizzy palate cleanser between bites. As for dessert, if you order the lemon cookies, you’ll get three of them. You’ll likely find that’s not enough.
607 W. Main, Fredericksburg; 830-992-3650; Wed–Sat 11–3 or sold out; eakerbarbecue.com
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Frisco

Hutchins BBQ

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Opened:
2014
Pitmaster:
Tim Hutchins, 41; Trey Hutchins, 50; John Mueller, 52
Method:
Oak and pecan; wood-fired rotisserie smoker
Pro Tip:
Try the Texas Twinkie, a stuffed jalapeño that inspired the similarly delicious one at Arlington’s Hurtado Barbecue.
The sides steal the show at the Frisco location of Hutchins BBQ (the original opened in 1978, in Princeton, under a different name, then moved to McKinney). They include garlicky mashed potatoes, bacon-infused mac and cheese, and pinto beans that taste like brisket soup. But the folks in the sometimes very long line are there for the Hutchins brothers’ smoked meat, which includes some of the best chicken and sausage in the state; fatty, flavorful burnt ends; and beef ribs. John Mueller, a member of barbecue royalty, recently joined the team.
9225 Preston Rd, Frisco; 972-377-2046; Daily 11–9 or sold out; hutchinsbbq.com
Gonzales

Baker Boys BBQ

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Opened:
2015
Pitmaster:
Phil Baker, 69; Wayne Baker, 40
Method:
Charcoal briquettes; indirect-heat pit
Pro Tip:
Get the chocolate meringue pie chilled, not at room temperature.
When a joint executes the holy trinity as well as Baker Boys does, you’d be forgiven for overlooking its other meat options. But don’t make that mistake here. The smoked turkey, generous half chicken, roasted raspberry-chipotle-glazed pork loin, and chicken legs stuffed with jalapeño and onion should not be missed. Phil Baker and son Wayne, who opened their spot in a spacious metal building along a highway six years ago, use charcoal instead of wood to smoke all the meats except for the sausage (the result: a flavor more akin to grilled than smoked). “We’re one of the few places that does that,” an employee boasted as she took our order. Most of the side dishes are made in-house, but the real nonmeat standouts are the desserts, including a classic banana pudding and a dark-chocolate pie topped with a white cloud of meringue.
1404 N. Sarah DeWitt Dr, Gonzales; 830-519-4400; Mon–Fri 10–6, Sat 10–4
Photograph Chelsea Kyle; styling by Drew Aichele
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bbq top 50 list zavala’s grand prairie
bbq top 50 list zavala’s grand prairie
bbq top 50 list zavala’s grand prairie
Zavala’s Barbecue, in Grand Prairie; pitmaster Joe Zavala; the offerings.Photographs by Brittany Conerly
Grand Prairie

Zavala’s Barbecue

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Opened:
2019
Pitmaster:
Joseph Bastian, 19; Ellie Snyder, 30; Joe Zavala, 35
Method:
Post oak and pecan; offset smoker
Pro Tip:
Fajita night starts at 4 p.m. Thursdays, and brisket breakfast tacos can be had Tuesdays through Fridays.
Joe Zavala aimed to bring his South Texas heritage to the Metroplex, as you can see in such items as the Sloppy Juan (chopped brisket, pulled pork, and barbecue sauce wrapped in a locally made tortilla) and in delectable sauces such as the Green Sauce (made with poblanos, cilantro, serranos, tomatillos, and garlic). The 44 Farms–sourced meat, however, demands the spotlight, and the beef rib is the star, with a beautifully peppered crust and perfectly rendered fat. The jalapeño-cheese sausage packs great flavor, while the Pizza Pepper sausage delivers even more heat.
421 W. Main, Grand Prairie; 817-330-9061; Thur–Sat 11–“no más”; zavalasbarbecue.com
The kitchen at Feges BBQ, in Houston.Photograph by Arturo Olmos
Houston

Feges BBQ

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Opened:
2021
Pitmaster:
Vince Boisaubin, 32; Hristo Cisneros, 24; Zach Cook, 34; Ozzi Escalante, 21 Patrick Feges, 36
Method:
Oak; wood-fired rotisserie smoker
Pro Tip:
Pair your barbecue with a glass of wine from the thoughtfully curated list.
The first Feges BBQ opened in Houston’s Greenway Plaza food court, in 2018, with as much emphasis on sides as smoked meats. It hasn’t slowed down since we named it one of the 25 best new barbecue joints in 2019, and a second location, with an even more ambitious menu, opened fifteen minutes away, in the Spring Branch district, earlier this year. There, fried chicken and a porcini-rubbed hanger steak join sweet-glazed pork ribs, Big Red brisket burnt ends, and juicy smoked chicken. Excellent accompaniments include the elote salad and Money Cat potatoes (imagine a potato burnt end bathed in a barbecue sauce made with Korean chile paste). But the spicy Korean greens might be the best barbecue side dish in Texas, so sop up that pot liquor with a wedge of hog-fat cornbread.
8217 Long Point Rd, Houston; 346-319-5339; Tue–Sat 11–9, Sun 11–3; fegesbbq.com
Katy

Brett’s BBQ Shop

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Opened:
2018
Pitmaster:
Rolando Garcia, 38; Brett Jackson, 40
Method:
Oak; offset smoker
Pro Tip:
Before you go, check out @brettsbarbecueshop on Facebook or Instagram, where weekly specials are posted.
Wedged between a tailor’s shop and a vacuum store in a Katy strip mall, Brett’s is inconspicuous, to say the least. But when we walked in, general manager Jacqueline Herrera promptly greeted us, expertly determined our order based on hunger level and party size, and pointed us toward the weekends-only cooler full of free beer. We sat down with a beautifully arranged tray. The brisket was tender and moist, tearing apart easily with each bite; the sausage packed a sweet and spicy punch; and the juicy turkey, with its flavorful salt brine and peppered bark, was a crowd-pleaser. The mac and cheese, potato salad, and beans were all notably delicious, but the one thing we can’t stress enough: get the slaw. Made fresh daily, it’s dressed with vinaigrette and mixed with finely sliced carrots and small bits of red bell pepper and jalapeño. We can’t stop raving about it.
606 S. Mason Rd, Katy; Wed–Fri 11:30–sold out, Sat & Sun 11–sold out; brettsbbqshop.com
Marfa

Convenience West

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Opened:
2017
Pitmaster:
Mark Scott, 35
Method:
Oak; offset smoker
Pro Tip:
After a long break, the joint is once again offering outdoor dining. But if you go the take-out route, order online several days before you pick it up.
When we visited this joint, which is housed in a former gas station and bus stop, we anticipated the meat, of course, but also the much-raved-about sides, specifically the popular Carrot Dip Dip: roasted carrots blended with onion, garlic, and red pepper, sprinkled with pepitas, and flanked by Fritos Scoops. Alas, there was no Dip Dip that day, but no matter. The menu brimmed with inventive twists on old favorites, such as a rack of St. Louis–cut ribs slathered in Old Bay seasoning, brisket tucked into tortillas, and a satisfyingly crunchy kale salad. The juicy whole chicken, bursting with deep and smoky flavors, stole the show.
1411 W. San Antonio, Marfa; Fri & Sat 5 p.m.–sold out; conveniencewest.com
bbq top 50 list butter’s mathis
bbq top 50 list butter’s mathis
The drive-through at Butter’s BBQ, in Mathis; a tray of meat.Photograph by Jenn Duncan
Mathis

Butter’s BBQ

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Opened:
2017
Pitmaster:
Robert Rodriguez, 24; Andrew Soto, 29
Method:
Post oak and mesquite; offset smoker
Pro Tip:
On Saturdays and Sundays, from 9:30 a.m. until it’s all gone, smoked beef cheeks are served with either corn tortillas or flour tortillas made by Soto’s mom, Frances Guzman.
If you’re traveling along I-37 between San Antonio and Corpus Christi, detour to this joint located along Highway 359. You’ll find superbly smoked USDA Prime brisket, flawless pork ribs, and an excellent jalapeño-cheese sausage, made with 80-20 beef and pork, diced jalapeño, and, on the day we visited, pepper jack cheese. Beyond this ideal of the Texas trinity, Butter’s also offers fine smoked chicken and turkey, pulled pork, and beef ribs.
104 Texas Hwy 359, Mathis; 361-255-6108; Fri 11–sold out, Sat & Sun 9:30–sold out; buttersbarbecue.com
Pitmaster Aaron Rejino at Rejino Barbeque, in Olton.Photograph by Jeff Wilson
Olton

Rejino Barbeque

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Opened:
2017
Pitmaster:
Aaron Rejino, 32
Method:
Oak; offset smoker
Pro Tip:
Preorder your ’cue online (before 9 a.m. the day of) so your trip to Olton doesn’t end in heartbreak.
Aaron and Christina Rejino are serving quality smoked meats and novel side dishes worthy of the short road trip from Lubbock—or the longer road trip if you’re coming from pretty much anyplace else. By the time we pulled up to their truck on a particularly idyllic Saturday, the Rejinos were just about wrapping up for the day, though a few patrons lingered, playing cornhole on the turfed patio. We managed to score brisket with a perfect bark, juicy smoked chicken, and a bounty of well-crafted sides, such as brisket-flecked pinto beans and green-chile corn. And, yes, we sneaked bites of the creamy banana pudding while driving to our next barbecue destination.
514 8th, Olton; 806-200-0810; Thur–Sat 11–sold out; rejinobbq.com
Pearland

Killen’s Barbecue

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Opened:
2013
Pitmaster:
Margarito Pineda, 54; Manny Torres, 48
Method:
Post oak, hickory, and pecan; wood-fired rotisserie smoker
Pro Tip:
Bring friends to help sample every dessert on the menu.
Top-notch brisket isn’t the only thing drawing hungry masses to Killen’s. Barbecue evangelists flock here for the succulent beef ribs and well-seasoned pork ribs, smoked turkey rubbed with generous handfuls of pepper, and crackly fried chicken (Sundays only). Others swear by the sides, which include blistered brussels sprouts and decadent creamed corn, a once-loathed school cafeteria dish that has amassed a cult following. The desserts are what made us look to the heavens and rejoice, though: the intricate bread pudding crafted from croissants is a showstopper, as is the banana pudding—a symphony of alternating textures—and a dense, architectural tres leches cake.
3613 Broadway, Pearland; 281-485-2272; Tue–Thur 11-6, Fri & Sat 11–8, Sun 11–sold out; killensbarbecue.com
Pflugerville

Brotherton’s Black Iron Barbecue

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Opened:
2017
Pitmaster:
Dominic Colbert, 36; Bill Dumas, 53; Charles Ferrell, 32; Bobby Holley, 25; Jason Tedford, 41
Method:
Oak; offset smoker and direct-heat pit
Pro Tip:
If you really like spice, take home one of Brotherton’s bottled sauces.
Owner John Brotherton, a dedicated barbecue aficionado turned pro, has visited all the joints on our past two Top 50 lists. So, he knows what it takes to build an impressive barbecue operation. He began with smoked meat sandwiches, which are still around; the popular Texas Reuben has been joined by new creations such as the Pflugerville Pfilly and the Texas Italian Beef, both made with brisket. He’s also expanded three times, recently adding a facility dedicated to making more varieties of sausage, including the impeccable boudin and beef links. But the backbone of Brotherton’s is the brisket. Each slice offers a stout bark and a rosy smoke ring that surrounds juicy meat so tender you just need to gently squeeze it between your thumb and index finger to break off one smoky bite after another.
15608 Spring Hill Ln, Pflugerville; 512-547-4766; Sun & Wed 11–3, Thur–Sat 11–6; pflugervillebarbecue.com
Pitmaster Kelli Nevarez outside the pit room at LaVaca BBQ, in Port Lavaca.Photograph by Jenn Duncan
Port Lavaca

LaVaca BBQ

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Opened:
2019
Pitmaster:
Kelli Nevarez, 29
Method:
Post oak; offset smoker
Pro Tip:
Don’t be alarmed: the creamed corn is green because pureed fresh jalapeños are added to it.
When Lupe and Christine Nevarez and their children opened this place two years ago, their daughter Kelli was a teacher who helped out part-time. Today she’s the full-time pitmaster, cranking out tender brisket, excellent house-made sausage, and massive pork spareribs covered in a house-made glaze that contains Big Red syrup. Christine now runs the family’s second location, in Bay City, and she still makes the specialty tamales: masa filled with brisket and pulled pork, wrapped in a butcher-paper “husk,” and smoked until firm. Lupe describes them as “our Mexican heritage going to the Hill Country.” The same could be said of the smoked pork belly tacos served on blue corn tortillas, and both are reason enough to visit this little joint on the Texas coast.
532 N. Virginia, Port Lavaca; 361-894-2333; Sun, Thur & Fri 11–2, Sat 11–8; lavacabbq.com
Rockdale

Brett’s Backyard Bar-B-Que

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Opened:
2018
Pitmaster:
Brett Boren, 39; Braden Wallis, 22
Method:
Oak; offset smoker and direct-heat pit
Pro Tip:
Don’t miss the Nutter Butter banana pudding and strawberry cobbler.
The offerings are piled high at Brett’s, which serves some of the most indulgent craft barbecue in Central Texas. From an extensive menu—baby back ribs, pork spareribs, chicken, brisket, pulled pork, four kinds of sausages, sandwiches, nine sides, dessert—a single plate can arrive with enough food to feed multiple mouths. The spot is known for brisket that is so tender and rich that even a few bites feel like enough. The Sunday special doesn’t disappoint either: slices of brisket wrapped in fluffy tortillas and topped with cotija cheese, jalapeños, and a squeeze of lime—a spot-on pairing of oak-infused fat and tangy spice. This festive, largely outdoor joint features a dining area with a stage for live music.
449 W. Cameron Ave, Rockdale; 512-639-2736; Thur–Sun 11–sold out; rockdalebarbque.com
San Antonio

2M Smokehouse

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Opened:
2016
Pitmaster:
Esaul Ramos, 36
Method:
Post oak; offset smoker
Pro Tip:
Smoked beef cheek barbacoa is the special the first Sunday of the month.
On a busy avenue in southeast San Antonio, a line of vehicles—from pickups to Porsches—snakes out of the parking lot and onto the street. These pilgrims have come from all over for brisket with a spicy bark and a fine balance of smoky and beefy flavor that’s so tender it accordions open when you lift a slice. Pitmaster Ramos honed his skills at Austin’s La Barbecue but has brought his own style to 2M. One of his sausages is stuffed with serrano peppers and Oaxaca cheese, and the sides are similarly distinctive: pickled nopales, mac and cheese with chicharrones, and Mexican street corn.
2731 S. WW White Rd, San Antonio; 210-885-9352; Thur–Sun 11–4 or sold out; 2msmokehouse.com
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Photograph Chelsea Kyle; styling by Drew Aichele
San Antonio

Pinkerton’s Barbecue

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Opened:
2021
Pitmaster:
Grant Pinkerton, 32
Method:
Mesquite and post oak; offset smoker
Pro Tip:
Order a serving of the duck-and-sausage jambalaya and a link of boudin for a little Louisiana flavor.
Pinkerton’s feast for the senses begins as you approach the massive farmhouse-style building that’s home to the San Antonio satellite of Grant Pinkerton’s original Houston joint. You smell the smoke first, of course, and then you see pile upon pile of neatly stacked wood. Next comes the music: strains of the Texas Tornados’ “(Hey Baby) Que Paso” greeted us as we joined a long line of diners. By the time we made our way inside, our taste buds were primed. They were rewarded with decadently glazed “candy paint” pork ribs, snappy jalapeño-cheese sausage, and brisket that disappeared so quickly we regretted ordering only half a pound. A classic mustard potato salad and a lightly sauced red-cabbage slaw rounded out the tray, along with a divine smoked bread pudding (if it had any smoke, we couldn’t detect it). The hunting lodge–like dining room, replete with a full bar, and the festive outdoor eating area made the whole experience feel like a party you don’t want to end.
107 W. Houston, San Antonio; 210-983-0088; Sun & Wed 11–9, Thur–Sat 11–10; pinkertonsbarbecue.com
San Marcos

Hays Co. Bar-B-Que & Catering

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Opened:
2007
Pitmaster:
Michael Hernandez, 47; Michael Aaron Hernandez, 28; Jessie Miranda, 47
Method:
Post oak; offset smoker
Pro Tip:
Save some room for the juicy pork chop and the green-chile mac.
A lot has changed since this stalwart joint made our 2017 list. The old trailer has been replaced by a large building, a shiplap-and-corrugated-metal affair with tons of natural light. What hasn’t changed is the brisket, which, with its understated bark adding a rich depth to the flavor, continues to stand out, even in the meaty mecca along this stretch of the I-35 corridor. In fact, Hays Co. has made some improvements: the pork ribs are now a perfect balance of sweet and peppery, and there’s a selection of frozen mixed drinks, including the Hays Co. Raspa, a boozy slushy of Big Red and rum. Who knew barbecue and Big Red could get any better?
1612 S. I-35, San Marcos; 512-392-6000; Mon–Thur 11–7, Fri & Sat 11–8, Sun 11–4 or sold out; hayscobbq.com
Spring

CorkScrew BBQ

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Opened:
2011
Pitmaster:
Will Buckman, 42
Method:
Red oak; wood-fired rotisserie smoker
Pro Tip:
Try the TRIS-ket Sandwich, which features sliced brisket topped with Caesar salad.
License plates cover the counters at CorkScrew, and on weekends the parking lot is filled with a similar array of plates, symbols of the journeys that barbecue fanatics make to try husband-and-wife duo Will and Nichole Buckman’s fare. You could eat through the entire menu, but you’d be as happy with just the brisket (which we overheard one fellow diner call “elegant”) and the pulled pork, which is some of the best in the state; the meat is smoked bone-in and then mixed with a pepper-and-vinegar sauce. If you’re starved, add the stuffed potato salad, which comes topped with a hearty scoop of the meat of your choice, along with queso, green-chile ranch, and green onions.
26608 Keith, Spring; 832-592-1184; Wed–Sat 11–4; corkscreworders.com
Taylor

Louie Mueller Barbecue

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Opened:
1949
Pitmaster:
Wayne Mueller, 56
Method:
Post oak; offset smoker
Pro Tip:
Prepare to embrace a long wait and many decades’ worth of smoke-stained charm.
The line at Louie Mueller was moving slowly when we visited, and the woman taking orders had no time for small talk. But our request for a beef rib stopped her cold. “You know what you’re doing, right?” she said. “That’s gonna be more than two pounds of meat. Yep, could be seventy or eighty dollars.” She slapped the counter, turned and pulled the rib from the warmer, and dropped it onto a tray, causing the rendered fat and tender beef to roll like waves on an angry sea. The first salty, buttery bite made clear that this is one of the best pieces of smoked meat you’ll find anywhere. The brisket, sliced as thick as a New York strip, and the all-beef sausage, which audibly snaps (and drenches your chin) when bitten, are also near-perfect specimens. And that’s why few things are more sacred in Texas barbecue than a meal at Louie Mueller.
206 W. 2nd, Taylor; 512-352-6206; Wed–Sat 11–4 or sold out; louiemuellerbarbecue.com
Tomball

Tejas Chocolate + Barbecue

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Opened:
2015
Pitmaster:
Greg Moore, 55; Scott Moore Jr., 57
Method:
Post oak; offset smoker
Pro Tip:
Take a Dark Matter chocolate bar for the road: 70 percent dark chocolate, with black-lava sea salt and pepper.
At Tejas Chocolate + Barbecue, employees might well tell you, “We’ve been crushing it since 2011, smoking it since 2015.” That’s because brothers Greg and Scott Moore’s operation, cofounded with Michelle Holland, originally sold only bean-to-bar chocolates. Needing to find another revenue stream, they turned their love of craft toward barbecue. We’re mighty thankful they did. The USDA Prime brisket oozes with perfectly rendered fat under a hefty salt-and-pepper bark, but the star of the show is the chile relleno sausage, made with brisket trimmings, roasted poblanos, and gooey pepper jack. Complete your meal with sides that expand your idea of what can complement barbecue, like the carrot soufflé, kissed with caramelized sugar.
200 N. Elm, Tomball; 832-761-0670; Tue–Fri 11–6, Sat 11–5; tejaschocolate.com
Tyler

Stanley’s Famous Pit Barbecue

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Opened:
1960
Pitmaster:
Spencer Carl, 34; Nick Pencis, 44
Method:
Pecan and post oak; offset and wood-fired rotisserie smokers
Pro Tip:
Head to the bar and savor a variety of whiskey flights, featuring ryes and bourbons that range from the budget stuff to high-dollar pours.
The tagline stenciled on nearly every surface at Stanley’s is “Be Kind, Have Fun,” a somewhat incongruous entreaty in this traditionally rough-and-tumble East Texas railroad town. But Stanley’s lives up to the motto, combining a world-class barbecue joint with two bars stocked with a dizzying selection of beer and assorted whiskeys and a honky tonk–inspired stage for live music. Owner Nick Pencis’s smoked meats are consistently great, anchored by the towering Mother Clucker smoked chicken sandwich and the baby back ribs rubbed with an eleven-spice dry mixture. Above all, Stanley’s is a community gathering place where staff and guests embody the fun and kindness that the restaurant’s slogan extols.
525 S. Beckham Ave, Tyler; 903-593-0311; Mon–Sat 11–9 or sold out; stanleysfamous.com
bbq top 50 list guess in waco
bbq top 50 list guess in waco
bbq top 50 list guess in waco
Pitmaster Reid Guess at Guess Family Barbecue, in Waco; hot Cheetos elote; stacked post oak.Photographs by Jeff Wilson
Waco

Guess Family Barbecue

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Opened:
2017
Pitmaster:
Kyle Arwine, 45; Reid Guess, 39; Chuy Ortiz, 28
Method:
Post oak; offset smoker
Pro Tip:
Wednesdays bring Tex-Mex, Thursdays chicken-fried steak, Fridays baby back ribs and pork spareribs, and Saturdays steak.
Reid Guess touts his old-school barbecue for good reason—the simply seasoned spareribs are hulking and tender, and the brisket is dazzlingly juicy. But you’d be missing out if you didn’t also stray from the classics. Guess, a former pitmaster at upscale Austin joint Lamberts, had our attention from the moment he opened his Waco food truck, in 2017. He upgraded to a brick-and-mortar restaurant in 2019; the renovated space has allowed him to branch out into a variety of specials. Highlights include a brisket melt with cheddar, caramelized onion, and house aioli on Texas toast; fried baby back ribs; and a fresh broccoli salad that might help you justify ordering a few extra menu items. Don’t skip the desserts; all are made in-house, including a heavenly single-serving coconut cream pie.
2803 Franklin Ave, Waco; 254-313-3436; Wed–Fri 11–8, Sat 10–8, Sun 10–4; guessfamilybbq.com
Weslaco

Teddy’s Barbecue

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Opened:
2019
Pitmaster:
Jesse Garcia, 23; Joel Garcia, 30; Paul Rios, 36
Method:
Post oak; offset smoker
Pro Tip:
The Garcias’ mom, Ana, makes homemade flour tortillas (two for a dollar) using the beef fat rendered inside the smokers. They sell out quick, so show up early.
The brothers Garcia are Rio Grande Valley natives, but Joel received his barbecue education in Austin at Freedmen’s and Terry Black’s. Jesse, a culinary school grad, also worked at Freedmen’s and later joined his sibling at Smokin’ Moon BBQ, in nearby Pharr; it was Joel who was manning the smokers there in 2019 when that establishment made our list of the state’s 25 best new barbecue joints. Now running their own place, the sibling scholars are dishing out Central Texas–style barbecue that’s a study in pepper: the perfectly rendered lean brisket has a piquant bark thanks to a pepper, salt, and Season-All rub, which is also used in the pulled pork. The pork ribs’ sweet glaze offers the palate some relief, but the must-have is the sausage, spiced with salt, black pepper, cumin, garlic, cayenne, and crushed red pepper. Enjoy your platter at a picnic table in the outdoor area, which has a stage for live music.
2807 N. Texas Blvd, Weslaco; 956-532-6124; Thur & Fri 11–4, Sat 9–4, Sun 8–4 or sold out; t3xbbq.com
Woodway

Helberg Barbecue

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Opened:
2018
Pitmaster:
Candace Daniels, 29; David Ferlet, 48; Phillip Helberg, 27; Josh Soliman, 29
Method:
Post oak; offset smoker
Pro Tip:
Helberg offers daily specials such as a whole rack of ribs and the popular “bacon wings” (pork belly burnt ends that are flash-fried and sauced to order).
Strike up a conversation about great barbecue in Waco, and chances are you’ll have more than one local pointing you to Phillip and Yvette Helberg’s joint in Woodway, just northwest of town. The couple upgraded from a food truck to a large and simply adorned space that features picnic tables and a familial vibe. We ordered the Quarterback mixed-meat plate, and while the brisket was beautiful, we found ourselves focused on the pork steak, the smoked chicken (also fried for extra-crispy skin), and the toothsome sausages. The highlights among the side dishes were the smoked-cheddar-and-Gouda mac and cheese and the collard greens. A family-recipe banana pudding was decadently creamy—we would have gone back for more if we hadn’t already stuffed ourselves silly.
8532 N. Texas Hwy 6, Woodway; 254-848-8200; Wed & Thur 11–7, Fri & Sat 11–8, Sun 10–2 or sold out; helbergbarbecue.com
Credits
Lead Writers

Patricia Sharpe, Daniel Vaughn

Writers

Josh Alvarez, Kathy Blackwell, Courtney Bond, David Courtney, Megan Creydt, Dan Goodgame, Michael Hall, Jimmy Ho, Claire Hogan, Christopher Hooks, Emily Kimbro, Paul Knight, Lauren Larson, Joe Levin, Paula Mejía, Victoria Millner, Doyin Oyeniyi, José R. Ralat, J.C. Reid, Ben Rowen, Patricia Sharpe, Dan Solomon, John Spong, Daniel Vaughn, Christian Wallace, Michelle Williams, Alainna Wurfel

Taste Testers

Josh Alvarez, Kathy Blackwell, Courtney Bond, Cat Cardenas, David Courtney, Megan Creydt, Amy Weaver Dorning, Dan Goodgame, Michael Hall, Jason Heid, Jimmy Ho, Claire Hogan, Peter Holley, Christopher Hooks, Emily Kimbro, Paul Knight, Lauren Larson, Joe Levin, Emily McCullar, Paula Mejía, Patrick Michels, Victoria Millner, Doyin Oyeniyi, José R. Ralat, J. C. Reid, Ben Rowen, Sarah Rutledge, Patricia Sharpe, Dan Solomon, John Spong, Mimi Swartz, Daniel Vaughn, Christian Wallace, Michelle Williams, Alainna Wurfel

Editors

Courtney Bond, Jeff Salamon

Copy Editors

Marilyn Bailey, Lea Konczal, Alicia Maria Meier, Sarah Rutledge

Fact Checkers

Sierra Juarez, Doyin Oyeniyi

Designers

Emily Kimbro, Victoria Millner

Photo Editors

Claire Hogan, Kayla Miracle

Art Producer

Darice Chavira

Interns

Lauren Castro, Ben Moskow, Jillian Price

Illustrator

Marianna Fierro

Developers

Tim Biery, Elijah Schow

Managing Editor

Anna Walsh

The 50 Best BBQ Joints2021

Mo' joints