November 2005

Features

Restaurant Directory

Nov 1, 2005 By Texas Monthly

All restaurants accept major credit cards unless otherwise noted. AMARILLO Montana Mike’s, 4332 SW Forty-fifth Avenue, 806-353-3339. Open Sun—Thur 11—9, Fri & Sat 11—10. AUSTIN Arkie’s Grill, 4827 E. Cesar Chavez, 512-385-2986. Open Mon—Fri 5:30 a.m.—3 p.m. Dot’s Place, 13805 Orchid Lane, one block south of Howard Lane, 512-587-4222.

Pie + Cobbler

Nov 1, 2005 By Patricia Sharpe

Austin The apples in the filling are crisp, the spicing pitch-perfect, the crust reasonably flaky at unpretentious but agreeable Tony’s Southern Comfort, and the restaurant’s smooth, firm sweet-potato pie is equally worthy of a slice. And don’t overlook the peach cobbler, plenty sweet, with cinnamony crusts on top and bottom…

Yao Got Game

Nov 1, 2005 By brooklarmer

China’s most famous athletic export arrived in the U.S. as a seven-foot-four-inch seventeen-year-old who excelled at every move except America’s most glorified one. Given his upbringing, getting him to stuff the ball in the hoop in rim-rattling fashion was no slam dunk.

Pork Chops

Nov 1, 2005 By Patricia Sharpe

Amarillo Decorated with faux-log-cabin walls and outdoorsman ephemera—“Closed till the fish stop biting” reads a chalkboard near the bar— Montana Mike’s is intended to look like a mountain fishing lodge in the heart of the flatlands. Skip the fish and order the thin-cut grilled chops, which come two to a…

Meat Loaf

Nov 1, 2005 By Patricia Sharpe and June Naylor

Austin A near-Platonic meat loaf emerges from the to-go window of Dot’s Place; the beefy slices crumble as you cut into them, melding with the tomatoey topping to form a sort of glorious, Southern-style Bolognese sauce. On Thursdays, meat loaf mavens go to Tony’s Southern Comfort for well-textured slices of…

Okra + Greens

Nov 1, 2005 By Patricia Sharpe

Austin Greens always have an undercurrent of bitterness—that’s what makes them interesting. The yummy fresh collards at Dot’s Place (presently in temporary quarters and serving to-go only) balance the bitterness with salt. The humble spot’s stewed okra with juicy tomatoes gives that much-maligned vegetable a good name; the seasoning is…

Chicken-Fried Steak

Nov 1, 2005 By Patricia Sharpe

Austin The color is toasty-brown; the light fried batter is crisp and not too thick; the meat inside is tender—what more do you need to know about the admirable CFS at Tony’s Southern Comfort, a family-operated place in East Austin. A spunky and exceptionally crunchy envelope of fried batter surrounds…

House Specialties

Nov 1, 2005 By Patricia Sharpe

Austin Whoa! You don’t get just some stringy bits when you order chicken and dumplings at Dot’s Place; you get whole pieces of baked chicken. The dumplings, somehow fluffy and substantial at once, may be the world’s best use of white flour. The heavenly nutmeg-and-clove-laced mashed sweet potatoes are…

Cornbread + Biscuits

Nov 1, 2005 By Patricia Sharpe

Austin The moist cornbread muffins at Dot’s Place walk the line between sweet and unsweet, so as not to offend patriots on either side of the great cornbread divide. Just remember the restaurant is serving to-go only these days. At Threadgill’s, the unsweet cornbread muffins have a bit of texture…

Fried Chicken

Nov 1, 2005 By Patricia Sharpe and June Naylor

Austin Tender, with outrageously crisp, well- battered skin, Monday’s bone-in chicken alone is worth a trip to the amenable digs of Tony’s Southern Comfort, where a card table up front displays mouthwatering pies, your reward for the easy task of cleaning your plate. Dallas Dallas’s well-nigh-mythical Highland Park Cafeteria…

Mashed Potatoes

Nov 1, 2005 By Patricia Sharpe and Stacy Hollister

Austin Can mere mashed potatoes be bodacious? If so, the ones at Tony’s Southern Comfort qualify. Whipped to a fare-thee-well, they are anointed with a thinnish, mild cream gravy. The menu calls them “au gratin potatoes,” but the great cheesy, creamy, well-peppered spuds at Arkie’s Grill are more mashed than…

Dome Away From Home

Jan 20, 2013 By John Spong

Inside the Eighth Wonder of the World—the largest shelter ever organized by the American Red Cross—faith, hope, and charity helped the survivors of Hurricane Katrina begin the process of rebuilding their lives.

Southern Comfort

Jan 20, 2013 By Patricia Sharpe

Fabulous fried chicken, marvelous meat loaf, great greens, outstanding okra, perfect pie, and more: where to find our favorite staples of home cooking.

Reporter

Under the Wire

Nov 1, 2005 By Mike Shea

When the United States dallied unforgivably long before entering World War II, young Texan WILLIAM ASH forfeited his American citizenship to join the Royal Canadian Air Force and fight Hitler. UNDER THE WIRE (Thomas Dunne Books), co-authored with Brendan Foley, captures Ash’s short but impressive career as a Spitfire fighter…

Dermaphoria

Nov 1, 2005 By Mike Shea

Dallas native CRAIG CLEVENGER burrows deep into the sordid and paranoid realm of illicit recreational drugs with his second novel, DERMAPHORIA(MacAdam/Cage), a fictional crash course in the where and how of designer-drug manufactories. Eric Ashworth’s gruesome tale begins with his regaining consciousness cuffed and chained, covered with bandages, and knowing…

Hail to the Chief

Nov 1, 2005 By Katy Vine

For going on five years, my admiration has grown for the weekly paper in the tiny Panhandle town of Miami (above). The New York Times it ain’t, but it tells me everything I could ever want to know about local births and deaths, windblown mail, bad potholes, and good yards. And Theo.

Snow

Nov 1, 2005 By Jeff McCord

The Meat Puppets flowered in the Arizona desert with a style so unique that it seemed as if no one in the band had ever heard music of any kind. In fact, behind their weird psycho-country-rock was a group with enormous appeal that quickly became an eighties cult favorite. Led…

Pure Genius: The Complete Atlantic Recordings

Nov 1, 2005 By Jeff McCord

The call came in 1954: Dallas saxophonist DAVID “FATHEAD” NEWMAN was being asked to join a band. On the phone, a young RAY CHARLES, who had befriended Newman on the road years earlier. Newman took the gig. It was work. It also became a career. PURE GENIUS: THE COMPLETE ATLANTIC…

Dos Amigos

Nov 1, 2005 By Jeff McCord

If only by virtue of being crossover artists, FREDDY FENDER and FLACO JIMENEZ have each secured a rarified place in Hispanic music. Fender’s earthy Rio Grande Valley hits, like “Wasted Days and Wasted Nights,” got him there, while Jimenez’s San Antonio–style conjunto attracted Anglo ears as varied as Glen Campbell’s…

Six Bits a Day

Nov 1, 2005 By Mike Shea

ELMER KELTON has been recognized by the Western Writers of America as the best western author of them all, and he shows no signs of slowing down with SIX BITS A DAY (Forge). Set in the 1880’s, his latest novel visits the cowboying origins of Hewey Calloway, Kelton’s popular character…

Columns

Web

Books That Cook

Nov 1, 2005 By Kimberly Jeffries

When you buy a cookbook that is part of a series entitled, “Great Restaurants of the World,” you know you’re in for some lavish lessons in the culinary arts. Part homage to the famous North Dallas restaurant and part cookbook, III Forks: An Insider’s Look at the Famed Restaurant and…

Made in China

Nov 1, 2005 By Patricia McConnico

Brook Larmer, Newsweek’s Shanghai bureau chief and the author of Operation Yao Ming, on basketball sensation Yao Ming, sports in China, and writing his first book.

Comfort Zone

Nov 1, 2005 By Tosin Mfon

Senior editor Patricia Sharpe, who wrote this month’s feature on home cooking, talks about local opinions and okra.

Contributors

Nov 1, 2005 By Texas Monthly

Charles S. Anderson You may not know Charles S. Anderson’s name, but you certainly know his work. He’s created striking images and logos for Turner Classic Movies, Target, French Paper, and Best Buy. And though the designer, who is based in Minneapolis, rarely creates artwork for magazines,…

Pie Crust

Nov 1, 2005 By Texas Monthly

2 cups minus 3 tablespoons chilled Crisco shortening (do not substitute another brand) 5 cups flour plus several tablespoons 1⁄2 teaspoon salt dissolved in 1⁄2 cup chilled water Cut the Crisco into the flour and work it with a pastry blender or the tips of your…

Upper Crust

Nov 1, 2005 By Patricia Sharpe

As any pie freak will tell you, it’s all about the crust. And crust purists here in Texas agree that for sheer flakiness and tenderness, you can’t beat the pies at Royer’s cafe, in the Central Texas community of Round Top. If you want to verify this yourself, you can…

Cova

Jan 20, 2013 By Patricia Sharpe

Folks in the wine biz are always fretting about how to make the fruit of the vine more approachable. It’s easy: Just open a wine shop and start serving yummy little snacks (and big snacks) on the side, as Monsterville Horton IV, the owner of Cova, has done in…

Miscellany

Robert Rivard

Nov 1, 2005 By Evan Smith

“People speak nostalgically about family newspapers. For every decent one, there were literally hundreds of embarrassingly bad ones.”

Around the State

Nov 1, 2005 By Texas Monthly

November—People, Places, Events, Attractions 11-2005 Checked anything off your life list lately? No, we don’t mean organizing your garage, putting your kids through college, or writing your will. We’re talking birding: Ever made note of a warbler, a hawk, or an egret? Texas is home to more than six hundred…

Seeing Red

Nov 1, 2005 By Texas Monthly

I cross the Red River regularly for business, and it galls me every time. You see “OU” everywhere, and you can’t say anything, because Bob Stoops owns Mack Brown [“The Eyes of Texas Are Upon Him,” September 2005]. Mack Brown may be a nice guy, but I want trained…