Of course the El Paso version of a California roll is a taco. And the only place to get this unique item is at Kiki’s. Housed in a building more than a century old, the structure has hosted grocers, barbershops, a music store, a pharmacy, and several bars, at least, before becoming a dark, wood-paneled eatery where the staff behind the bar is as likely to breakout into a sing-along of Kenny Rogers’ “The Gambler” on the jukebox as it is to testify about the singularity that is the crab taco. The plate of three crispy tacos is filled with imitation crab, a generous serving of crisp lettuce, heavy-handed helpings of yellow and white cheeses and tomato wedges. The fiery red salsa served on the side balances the shellfish’s sweetness.
2719 N. Piedras St., 915-565-6713. Sun–Thur 10:30 a.m.–9 p.m., Fri 10:30 a.m.–10 p.m., Sat 10:30 a.m.–9 p.m. www.kikisrestaurant.com