A beautiful thing happens when classic grub meets classical technique, and that beautiful thing is on full display at Holy Frijole, a taco truck that’s ratcheting up the city’s standards of Mexican street food. Quesadillas play it straight with topping options like squash blossoms and huitlacoche (corn fungus). The chopped duck tacos with bits of crunchy skin and plump mushrooms are complemented by the even-keeled habanero salsa. The saucy chicharron prensado, a guisado taco of fried pork rinds given a chipotle bath, are messy and spicy and are delightful, even if the addition of rice to rein in some of the liquid would lighten the used-napkin aftermath.
2509 Weisenberger St., Fort Worth (817-902-5273). Open Sun-Sat 11 a.m.–8 p.m.