One whole wall of this funky Tex-Mex/Mex-Mex joint features a tortilla-making station that cranks out a never-ending stream of slightly thicker, gordita-style corn tortillas used to cradle an excellent selection of taco meats such as barbacoa and lengua. But the piernas—pork shank seasoned in an earthy red sauce—may be the best of the bunch. Weekends feature a huapango trio strolling and playing among tables with guests dipping into big bowls of menudo. 3810 Irvington Blvd, 713-697-7888. Open Sun–Thu 7 a.m.–1 a.m., Fri–Sat 7 a.m.–2 a.m.