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Brunch With the Homesick Texan

Peach Ice Cream

Lisa Fain

Before the advent of air-conditioning, on summer afternoons Texans would sit on the porch to keep cool. They would sip tall, cool glasses of iced tea or lemonade, and if they were feeling especially industrious, they would crank up a batch of ice cream, too.

While Texans love many different flavors of ice cream, peach ice cream may be the flavor most connected with Texan summers, as this delicate, sweet fruit can be grown in a large portion of the state. While today most folks have electric ice cream makers and tend to stay inside on the hottest days, there is something to be said for sitting on the porch and eating ice cream with your family and friends, and saying howdy to the neighbors as they stroll by.

MAKES 1 QUART

2 cups sliced peeled peaches
1 cup granulated sugar
2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice
1⁄2 teaspoon ground cinnamon
1 cup heavy cream
2 cups half‐and‐half
1⁄4 cup packed brown sugar
4 egg yolks
1 teaspoon vanilla extract

Toss the peaches with 3⁄4 cup of the granulated sugar, the lemon juice, and cinnamon. Cover, refrigerate, and let macerate for 2 to 8 hours, until softened.

divide the peach mixture in half. Pour half the mixture, both peaches and liquid, into the blender or food processor and puree until smooth. Gently mash the other half, and then refrigerate.

To make the ice cream base, pour the peach puree into a saucepan and add the cream, half-and-half, remaining 1⁄4 cup granulated sugar, and brown sugar. Cook over medium-low heat until warm but not boiling, 3 to 5 minutes. Meanwhile, beat the egg yolks with the vanilla. Take the cream mixture off the heat, mix 1⁄2 cup of the cream mixture into the beaten egg yolks, and then add the egg yolk mixture back into the pot with the rest of the cream mixture. While stirring, continue to cook until the mixture is slightly thickened and coats the back of a spoon, about 2 minutes. refrigerate the ice cream base until cool, 2 to 4 hours.

Freeze in an ice-cream machine according to the manufacturer’s instructions. Halfway through the freezing process, pour in the reserved mashed peaches and their syrup.

Serve immediately, if you want a softer ice cream, or chill in the freezer for 2 hours for a firmer ice cream

Reprinted with permission from The Homesick Texan’s Family Table by Lisa Fain, copyright (c) 2014. Published by Ten Speed Press, a division of Random House, Inc.

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