Feeling lost,we looked high, low, and sideways for the entrance. Vaudeville, a home goods store, gallery, and bistro, has occupied a three-story 1915 brick building on Main Street for two and a half years, ever since partners Jordan Muraglia, chef, and Richard Boprae, artist, came to Fredericksburg from Colorado. But what draws the gourmet-minded is the thrice-weekly “supper club” in the courtyard restaurant—and we weren’t sure how to get in. Finally, peeking around the corner of the building, my friend and I saw tables shaded by white fabric umbrellas. We stepped hesitantly into the open space.
As if someone had pressed a mute button, all of Fredericksburg’s comfy-cozy gemütlichkeit hubbub ceased. Before us was a graceful stone fountain flanked by low planters filled with rose bushes. Fig ivy clung to the walls. A stylish hostess led us to a long, well-appointed room hung with contemporary artwork. And then there was our dinner: baby Bibb lettuce salad with cumin-tinged pork confit, matchsticks of Asian pear, and fresh figs; Icelandic cod in tempura batter, crowned with a nest of twisty potato shoestrings and sided by a fried kale leaf and a couple of the fattest littleneck clams ever; and a fluffy, soufflé-like jalapeño cornbread pudding topped by salted corn gelato and accompanied with moscato-infused peach slices and ruby-red cubes of watermelon.
Ahh. We lingered over coffee, then stepped back out on the sidewalk and into the happy din of Texas’s own Munchkinland. Gemütlichkeit we will always have with us. —Patricia Sharpe
Eat: Supper club Fri & Sat (six-course tasting menu, $85) and Mon (three courses, $55 prix fixe). Wine pairing extra. Reservations required. 230 E. Main, 830-992-3234.
Play: You must, of course, shop on Main Street; head to Red for modern and vintage accessories and Carol Hicks Bolton Antiquities for shabby-chic furnishings and memorabilia. Once you get your fill of tchotchkes, venture out of town to the pink-granite dome at Enchanted Rock State Natural Area or to one (or all) of the thirteen wineries between Johnson City and Fredericksburg.