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Where to Eat Now 2015

No. 6 San Salvaje

Dallas

Photograph by Kevin Marple

The name means “Wild Saint,” with the emphasis on “wild.” This riotously decorated venture from 62-year-old Dallas chef Stephan Pyles takes you on a border-hopping culinary tour of Mexico, South America, Cuba, and beyond. Yet despite the unfamiliar words on the menu, many of the dishes are surprisingly comforting. A case in point? The causa. One of Peru’s best-loved dishes, the causa has a lot in common with potato salad, a fact you realize once you take a bite of the silky whipped spuds with their topping of rocoto chile mayo. Likewise, Brazil’s famous feijoada has meaty similarities to chili, even though it is made with pork cheeks, chicharrones, and cranberry beans cooked with red wine and ham hock broth. Yes, there’s carne asada and enchilada pie for those who are having a bit of culture shock. But when you’re sitting at a table surrounded by tribal masks and Day of the Dead figurines, why would you order anything ordinary?

Opened May 12, 2014. 2100 Ross Ave, Dallas (214-922-9922). L Mon–Fri. D Mon–Sat. Reservations recommended.  

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