2008: The brisket was passable for sandwich fodder but not good on its own. The ribs were dry and flavorless.
2010: Luling City Market has been described as an identity bandit. They stole an employee and a sauce recipe from the original City Market, in Luling, but the meat isn’t quite up to that level. Orders arrive on butcher paper accompanied by that signature clay-colored sauce, and there’s no denying…
2008: We didn’t expect much from a gas station trying to serve ’cue on the side, but we soon learned that the gas station was the side business. We ordered brisket, ribs, and sausage. The links had a great snap and a medium grind with lots of visible spices. They…
2010: I drove by the joint looking for the sign that I’d seen in Wyatt McSpadden’s Texas BBQ book, but the wall facing the corner had been whitewashed. I learned from the owner that he’d paid a man to repaint the sign, and he’d all but disappeared after the single…
The pork chops were skinny but packed big flavor, and the mesquite-smoked brisket, while a tad dry, was fork-tender and wore deep-red smoke rings and a crusty char.
Be advised: Diabetics may want to tread lightly.
Notable decor: Hundreds of signatures carved in the pads of a giant prickly pear hedge out front.
Owner Clarence Cohens is from Memphis, where, apparently, they have their own barbecue traditions.
Customers crowd in every day of the week to claim a sturdy chair and table in the blond-pine dining room.
When we compiled our last list, in 2003, the Cooper’s in Mason was in our top five. (The more famous Cooper’s, in Llano, is operated independently.) Sadly, it has now fallen out of our top fifty. Each piece of barbecue we sampled—from the brisket to the pork ribs to the…
In all of Texas, only a handful of places have sausage you can get excited about. This is one of them.
What’s better: the tangy brisket, the meaty ribs, or the small porky sausages? Debate it at the long communal table.
Complaint: The delicious brisket was sliced too thin.
Menu surprise: Pineapple pudding.
Building used to be: A Gulf station that is rumored to have sold bootleg whiskey out the back.
Notable decor: A six-foot-tall cooler filled with raw steaks.
Be advised: Pre-bagged slices of white bread are waiting for you on the table already.
No frills or pretense, just great burgers served in a friendly bar.