★★ (Good)

Lone Star Bar-B-Que

May 3, 2013 By Daniel Vaughn

2008: The brisket was passable for sandwich fodder but not good on its own. The ribs were dry and flavorless.

Luling City Market

May 3, 2013 By Daniel Vaughn

2010: Luling City Market has been described as an identity bandit. They stole an employee and a sauce recipe from the original City Market, in Luling, but the meat isn’t quite up to that level. Orders arrive on butcher paper accompanied by that signature clay-colored sauce, and there’s no denying…

Lum’s Bar-B-Que & Country Store

May 3, 2013 By Daniel Vaughn

2008: We didn’t expect much from a gas station trying to serve ’cue on the side, but we soon learned that the gas station was the side business. We ordered brisket, ribs, and sausage. The links had a great snap and a medium grind with lots of visible spices. They…

Mama and Papa B’s Bar-B-Q

May 3, 2013 By Daniel Vaughn

2010: I drove by the joint looking for the sign that I’d seen in Wyatt McSpadden’s Texas BBQ book, but the wall facing the corner had been whitewashed. I learned from the owner that he’d paid a man to repaint the sign, and he’d all but disappeared after the single…

McBee’s B-B-Q (Pleasanton)

May 3, 2013 By Daniel Vaughn

The pork chops were skinny but packed big flavor, and the mesquite-smoked brisket, while a tad dry, was fork-tender and wore deep-red smoke rings and a crusty char.

Baby Back Shak

May 3, 2013 By Daniel Vaughn

Owner Clarence Cohens is from Memphis, where, apparently, they have their own barbecue traditions.

Cooper’s Old Time Pit Bar-B-Que

May 3, 2013 By Daniel Vaughn

When we compiled our last list, in 2003, the Cooper’s in Mason was in our top five. (The more famous Cooper’s, in Llano, is operated independently.) Sadly, it has now fallen out of our top fifty. Each piece of barbecue we sampled—from the brisket to the pork ribs to the…

Lone Star Bar-B-Q

May 3, 2013 By Daniel Vaughn

In all of Texas, only a handful of places have sausage you can get excited about. This is one of them.

Willie B’s Bar B.Q.

May 3, 2013 By Daniel Vaughn

What’s better: the tangy brisket, the meaty ribs, or the small porky sausages? Debate it at the long communal table.