This joint has cut back on some of the creative sides it was known for, but that’s allowed new items like burgers, smoked meat loaf, and cedar-plank salmon to join the already hearty roster of smoked meats. Order this to go: Moist brisket with a little bit of crunchy bark around nicely rendered fat was as good as it’s ever been. The St. Louis–style ribs had a nice pink smoke ring and a mellow oak flavor, and the meat pulled off the bone with a firm bite. And though they certainly didn’t need it, a dab of the cumin-scented sauce really set them off. Pro tip: The new shady drive-through makes it easy to pick up your order. Take it home or enjoy your food at one of the picnic tables next to the resaca at the park across the street.

Note: Review reflects COVID-19 protocols in place at the time of visit.