Traditional Neapolitan pizza put this upscale Italian concept from Melbourne on the map, but meats, seafood, and house-made pastas share the spotlight too. We sipped Aperol spritzes between bites of crisp-fried calamari mixto: squid, eggplant, and zucchini, in a crunchy, fine-cornmeal breading. Next, a margherita pizza impressed with its chewy, yeasty crust; the capricciosa, though, suffered under the weight of too many ingredients, with its artichokes, olives, ham, and mushrooms. The proteins are pricey, but pollo piccante ($34) beckoned with promises of nduja (smoky-spicy spreadable salami). It was a delicious marriage: a half-chicken, braised with bell peppers, enlivened with a piquant nduja bread crumb topping. Dessert was almost perfect: flan-like cubes of brûléed lemon curd complemented by vanilla gelato and meringue dots; a blob of doughy pistachio “sponge” (dumpling?) was superfluous. The stylish dining room draws downtown’s corporate crowd on weekdays.