For a good time, call Billy Kin! On our recent visit, the remarkable chef was funny and smart, feeding and entertaining our group with panache. Apart from our oysters—from Prince Edward Island and as sweet as any on earth—all the sea creatures we sampled were flown in from Tokyo. Over the course of two hours we experienced multiple courses, and each was a wonder: cod dumplings; gorgeous micro-slices of octopus; chutoro with a raw quail egg; a deep-fried prawn shell with roe, then the prawn meat itself, topped with more roe; scallops crowned with foie gras; oak-seared, nori-wrapped flounder; an uni risotto; a dessert of frozen lychee with an incongruously delicious “frosting” of shaved wagyu fat adorning it like snow. It all felt like fireworks at a circus. The room is outfitted in rare wood by chef Kin himself, a master carpenter.