Ranch chic rides high in the saddle at this showplace in the Stockyards’ fancy new Hotel Drover. Try this: Chef Grant Morgan comes out of the chute strong with chicken-fried oysters, glistening with chipotle butter, teased with pickled mango, and drizzled with cumin-laced crema. Redfish seared in cast iron works nicely atop white bean ragout, swept with adobo butter with arugula salad alongside. Seared antelope was tender, if a tad gamy, but goat cheese grits and marmalade with elderberry and balsamic was a good touch. The big winner is the wood-grilled cauliflower steak topped with chimichurri and creamy chile-lime sauce. Pro tip: The sprawling dining room can be packed and loud on busy nights; enjoy a nightcap afterward on the creekside patio.
City: Fort Worth