Local restaurateur Shawn Virene has opened this airy, contemporary space to carry on his love affair with fine wines. And the list is an impressive 27 pages long, with modestly priced as well as extravagant options. We focused on the food, though, with some hits and misses. Truffled mushrooms, served in a wooden bowl, are served cold (and a bit oily); more interesting was ahi tuna tempura with soy caviar and wafer-thin cucumbers in kimchi. We also liked our salmon filet in citrus butter atop brussels sprouts (even if some of the sprouts were mighty tough), and the chilled pickled cauliflower, a side to the meaty pile of slow-cooked pork ribs. Profiteroles filled with chocolate ice cream made a fine finish. Let’s hope they soon stop shouting “a’Bouzy!” every time they pop a cork.