A wood-fired oven is at the heart of this stylish texture-filled bistro named for the matriarch of chef Karlo Orduña’s family. Starters like brussels sprouts “chips” (flash-fried leaves) drizzled in champagne-vinaigrette and grape leaves (stuffed with meat and turmeric) rice rile up the senses. If soup is your thing, you must have the one with chicken, couscous, and chickpeas—so good we took home an order for later. Continue with, perhaps, the lamb ragù over house-made capellini or the brown-butter quail, a whole roasted bird stuffed with rice pilaf. And then there are the pizzas (lamb, feta, and olives, anyone?) and, at night, the paellas (meat, seafood, and mixed).