Oysters and softshell crab do not cry out “West Texas,” but Aki Sushi, located in the Upper Valley’s new, super-cool Substation, has that and more, like appetizers such as the Cancun Jalapeños, a full-bodied, deep-fried treat that looks deceptively like a sushi roll (have a glass of water close by), and rolls like the caterpillar, with expertly grilled eel, and the rainbow, covered in lovely salmon and white tuna. The soba and udon noodles are also good, as are the tender teriyaki-sauced short ribs served on a bed of rice noodles. The chicken teriyaki is so good it’s worth the trip alone.