Choose carefully and you’ll have a decidedly good, rich breakfast, brunch, or lunch. Thick, tender, buttery biscuits are not just a side here but make up the conceptual centerpiece of almost every offering. Which is good when you stick to breakfast basics, like the huevos rancheros with a layer of refried beans and chorizo. It’s a bit much on sandwiches like the Old Smoky, which combines spicy brisket with cabbage slaw and a slather of cream gravy. Best on both plates (besides those biscuits): toasty, crisp-and-tender roasted potato hash. Next time, we’ll order a Biscuit Flight, the sweet served with jams and the savory with various gravies. The industrial-meets-country-front-porch setting has lots of shiny surfaces that seemed a bit cold on a chilly day, but service was warm and welcoming, if erratic. A traditional panadería counter offers a bit of sweet to take home.