We set off on a scenic drive, intent on finding out if the new owner of this esteemed establishment is serving the same juicy half-pound cheeseburger that we’ve always loved. And we are happy to announce that the “cover burger” (as in the one depicted in the cover photo of Texas Monthly’s burger issue) is still exceptional. Especially on the jalapeño-cheese bun. The best bet for sides is the half and half basket: hand-cut fries and crispy onion rings (plenty for sharing around the table). The daily specials are also consistently good. We lucked out and happened to be there for the Sunday night chicken-fried steak. Lightly breaded and fork-tender, served with real mashed potatoes and cream gravy, it was as good as Mom’s. Skip the guacamole. The staff is delightful and attentive.