This small, unassuming eatery south of the railroad tracks and just off the highway to Terlingua doesn’t need hype. The food speaks for itself, from luscious burgers and fries to Tex-Mex soul food. Can anything be more tipico than a green enchilada plate? Didn’t think so. Don’t kid yourself that you won’t finish the whole thing. There’s just something about the way the gruel-textured Spanish rice and refrieds work with enchiladas composed of two flat flour tortillas layered with cheese and topped with mild sauce. Freshness is supplied by diced lettuce and tomatoes. A little table salsa and the plate (empty now) just sings.