Opening a retro, white-tablecloth restaurant in a pandemic on torn-up Shepherd Drive could make for a rocky start. But never mind that—by the time our early-dining foursome left, the place was packed. Alfredo Mojica, previously a chef at Da Marco, has a faithful following. Starters shine at this classic Italian spot: lamb meatballs touched with truffle honey almonds and endive are juicy and tender; paper-thin prosciutto with mozzarella di bufala, pear, and arugula keeps the sweet, salty, and creamy in perfect balance. Potato croquettes with jamón ibérico and truffle cream burst with flavor. Crudos include a wafer-thin base of tuna with sea salt, fresh horseradish, black sesame, and lemon—lovely contrasts. From a plethora of pizzas we chose burrata with prosciutto, egg, and a scattering of arugula—simple and sunny. Burrata also stars in a macaroni dish, balanced beautifully with ragù and baby meat balls. The only disappointment? A sea scallop carpaccio with orange blossom honey and poached pear—too sweet for us.