Head west and drive over the railroad tracks and you’ll find yourself in New Mexico, surrounded by mountains and, if you’re lucky, a few of Ardovino’s delectable brick-oven pizzas; we like the margherita and the Full House, topped with sausage, pepperoni, Mesilla Valley green chiles, and cremini mushrooms. Steaks, like the tenderloin with truffled pommes aligot, are also excellent, as are the pastas; try the pasta di mare, fettucine loaded with lobster, seared scallops, tiger shrimp, and saffron crème. The weekend farmers market, with brunch and fabulous baked goods, is not to be missed.