The luxe Line Hotel has been throwing periodic public pool parties to get the word out that the place is (getting) ready for its close-up, so our view through the plate-glass windows was all swimsuits and suntans. We sat in a sleek room more new Austin than old: plush, curvy white settees, a veritable greenhouse of plants, slim portrait-back chairs with bright upholstery. The imaginative menu from former Top Chef winner Kristen Kish tends toward small plates (if you don’t count the $78 ribeye). We began well with a basket of fabulous stretchy grilled sourdough sided by salty cultured butter. We then shared our way through a mixed bag of choices, from the spot-on (delicious sweet corn and grilled baby carrots with feta, smoked yogurt, and snow peas) to the needs-work (snapper that was past its prime, with a too-tart sorrel puree and rather bland whipped cauliflower). The ups and downs continued with a mealy grilled acorn squash with lush melted cashew butter to a well-priced ($24) and properly cooked (if oddly unsalted) wagyu sirloin with a light radish pistou. A serving of lime sorbet in yuzu custard wore a crown of dainty coconut meringues, the essence of summer.
Cuisine: New American