Bellaire has an ambitious new sushi spot, but our visit revealed a few areas that need attention. The sushi was sublime, but the atmosphere in the well-appointed dining room was hectic, and the service was spotty. And acclaimed chef (and noted jokester) Yoshi Katsuyama, trained in Japan and formerly of Houston’s Uchi and Soto, is hidden at the end of his small bar. Only omakase diners have access to the convivial, pink-aproned itamae, and this is a shame. But the sushi! A huge variety of fresh fish is flown in daily from Tokyo, making its way into gemlike nigiri and creative maki such as the Red Rose, featuring cucumber, caviar, and torched toro. Of the non-fish items, we were delighted with the sumptuous miso soup and the crunchy flash-fried baby bok choy.