Not unlike Middle Eastern cuisines, with their love of kebabs, or Indian food, with its aromatic spices, Afghan cuisine is less piquant but brighter. Rice dishes, like the generous and satisfying pilaf we had here, are the most important part of a meal. Our kebab-e-gosfand—tender chunks of lamb—came with pillowy round flatbread, delectably charred from the oven. A stew, quorma, featured tender, flavorful chicken mingled with fragrant spices (bright coriander, toasty cardamom, earthy turmeric) as well as garlic, tomato, and onion. The pleasant dining room has linen-clad tables as well as a group area covered in a long red rug to mimic traditional floor dining (without the ups and downs). We can’t wait to return for a banquet.