Shortly after Barbs opened last summer, this magazine’s barbecue editor Daniel Vaughn visited and issued a fiat: the brisket prepared by the three youthful pitmaster-owners—Chuck Charnichart, Haley Conlin, and Alexis Tovias—is already in contention for the best in town and just maybe the best in the state. But that’s not what’s getting the headlines from far-flung media observers like the New York Times and causing lines of customers that regularly wind around the block. It’s the radically modern dishes, including—at the time of Vaughn’s visit—Molotov Pork Ribs glazed with serrano syrup and topped with lime zest and a bevy of smoked lamb chops rubbed with rosemary and thyme. Side dishes, too, depart from convention, witness the legend-in-its-own-time green spaghetti (in a creamy-cheesy mix involving roasted poblanos, jalapeños, and cilantro) and the charro-style black beans bolstered with thin-sliced wieners and topped with queso fresco. Traditionalists needn’t worry, though. The basics are not neglected, witness the forementioned moist and smoky lean brisket and Barbs’ state-of-the-art beef ribs. Before you stagger out the door, finish with bread pudding—made with Mexican pan dulce.