Now that you can order à la carte, settle into the cozy banquettes for a superlative nosh and a Texas-themed cocktail. We liked the Mustang Island: gin, bourbon, and a little cola, which paired swimmingly with grilled morsels of octopus cleverly hidden under lettuce leaves. A glass of an apple-crisp txakoli brought out the unexpected freshness of slices of rutabaga, shaped like roses, and chunks of apple. They balanced the almost pâté-like earthiness of pureed field peas. Although the grilled bavette—an often overlooked cut—was served a perfect ruby-hued rare, we loved even more the sweet-salty combination of country ham, a light lemon curd, and roasted brussels sprouts. Dumpling-like pasta packets filled with ricotta were bland compared with the shiitake-filled versions.
Cuisine: New American