2010: It’s always good to ask for a mix of lean and fatty brisket and not get an odd stare. Instead, the knife man just grabbed a beautiful piece of the point and starting slicing. They were out of ribs, so I added pork loin to the order based on staff recommendation. Pork loin is a tricky cut to smoke because of its propensity to dry out due to low fat content. But this was perfect. A thin line of nicely rendered fat hugged the bottom of each moist slice. Smokiness ran throughout the cut, and a nice salty rub really brought out the flavors. This should be a new standard for any regular to Bartley’s. 2008: The brisket had no smoke line but had a good smoke flavor from the black crust. There was little smoke outside the crust, but each slice was moist and tender—and there was a heap of it on my plate. I always appreciate a good value. These St. Louis–style ribs were perfectly tender with a slightly sweet flavor from an unobtrusive rub and a well-formed crust. The fat was well rendered giving an overall great rib flavor without all the grease. They also left the small meat knuckle below the bone for an extra flavorful bite.
Method: Hickory; indirect-heat pit
Pitmaster: Shane Wilkinson (since 2012)
Pro-tip: The pecan cobbler comes from the bakery next door.
We walked through the doors of this thoroughly nondescript suburban strip center spot and were greeted by the heavenly incense of smoked meat—which carried us to the counter in a happy daze. Next, came an unsolicited, excruciatingly upbeat testimonial from …
I needed to go back to Bartley’s in Grapevine to clear up a misunderstanding. In my D Magazine article on the Best BBQ in DFW, I stated that Bartley’s used oak in their smokers, but a few commenters noted that …