Battalion

Looking at the sturdy old brick fire station from the outside, you’d never expect to find a glitzy, Las Vegas–style dining room on the inside. The transformation comes courtesy of owner Andrew Goodman and chef-owner Stefan Bowers, who are also the majordomos of Feast and Rebelle. Start with small plates, like grilled beets with smoked walnuts, Gorgonzola, and a sweet drizzle of quince saba. Then indulge in some of the best pasta in the city (the tagliolini, as delicate as silk ribbons, comes bathed in a golden-tomato-and-pepper sauce). Tremendous bargains can be found among the main courses, all $26, such as an oregano-spiked Berkshire pork chop in a lush sauce of Italian peppers, tomatoes, and white wine. (See also Pat’s Pick.)