BCK Kitchen & Cocktail Adventures
This upbeat modern diner and bar from the team behind Southern California export Bosscat Kitchen & Libations has taken the former Glass Wall space in the Heights. Booths, antiques, and photos of the owners as children complete the retro look. Nostalgic dishes inspired by childhood favorites (served on retro dinnerware, natch’) include a massive Shake ‘n Bake pork chop, tangy sweet and sour meatballs, and strawberry shortcake ice cream with shortbread crumbles, à la the Good Humor bar. A side of Pasghettios with beefy 44 Farms sausage served in an individual crock was whimsical, but the O-shaped noodles clung to a too-sweet tomato sauce. Much better: roasted street corn, a.k.a. shucked corn from the cob, folded with rich cheeses and Fresno chiles, served with thick homemade tortilla chips (even if the dish did seem to be missing its promised bacon). We had high hopes for the Korean-inspired Backhand Shrimp, a childhood favorite of corporate chef Jeff Fernandez. However, the shellfish were as mouth-numbingly spicy as the rice grits were bland and undercooked. We quelled the heat with the Goddess of Greens salad tossed with romaine, arugula, and avocado, scantily anointed with “Green Goddess” dressing; we were grateful for the chill, but overall, even extra tarragon-parsley dressing couldn’t save the salad from the doldrums. The childhood nostalgia theme is consistent right down to the clever cocktails: the First Crush, with Jim Beam Vanilla, Orange Crush soda, and cream is mmm mmm good!