Crisp linens and servers in formal black-and-white uniforms give this remodeled house an old-world charm and sophistication. Prices, however, are very modern. It’s no surprise that special requests are honored: our guest wanted a simple lettuce salad (nary a one on the menu) and was served the most scrumptious mix of fresh greens he remembers having in a long time. Our favorite dish recently was the fisherman’s soup, with branzino, shrimp, and garlic croutons afloat in a perfect, intense broth. Equally fine was a huge mound of burrata atop watermelon, greens, and basil leaves in a vinegar reduction, a satisfying sweet-salty combination. A special of razor clams proved not as special as expected; the clams were more stringy than meaty and seemed less than pristine. Fortunately, the mussels with leek sauce and Ibérico ham made them a distant memory.