Dining Guide

Bejas

After a five-year hiatus, this revived eatery is back in the heart of Fredericksburg. Huge tacos, served on doubled corn tortillas, run the gamut, from grilled mahi sporting cilantro lime crema, cabbage, and pico to tenderloin drizzled with bright chimichurri, pickled red onions, and crumbles of cotija. Other options are chicken-fried steak (so-so) and a New York strip (deliciously tender and well-cooked). Your best bet in the appetizer section is the Quatro (Cuatro?), featuring heaping bowls of house-made guacamole, spicy queso, a smoky puree of black beans, and a chunky chipotle dip (a real bargain at happy hour, which starts at 3 p.m.). Cocktails are big, beautiful, and potent.